Lulu La Delizia

5/97 Rokeby Rd, Subiaco

(08) 9381 2466 lululadelizia.com.au

Chef Joel Valvasori-Pereza

Price guide $$ Bookings Essential Wheelchair access Yes

The pasta at Lulu La Delizia hits different. Whether you’re marvelling at the bite of the gramigna, admiring the ornate corzetti or surrendering to the pleasures of a gutsy boar and smoked pancetta ragù, this new-wave osteria in Perth’s inner west redefines the possibilities of flour power. Yet top tier carb-loading is just one of the reasons why locals and clued-up visitors hustle hard for tables. Many come to witness Joel Valvasori-Pereza reference his family’s Northern Italian heritage in cool, unexpected ways; from sweet-savoury squid ink fritole dusted with fennel sugar and presented with mascarpone and salmon roe, to using poppy seeds to crunch up precision-cut raw scallops. This is a loud, high-octane ride, ably fuelled by a crack floor team that seems to be enjoying the night as much as guests, as well as a formidable Aus-talian drinks list that favours boutique beer, wine and – fittingly – potent grappa.