Gourmet Traveller (Australia)

Wildflower

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Como The Treasury, Lvl 4, 1 Cathedral Ave, Perth

(08) 6168 7855 wildflower­perth.com.au

Chef Matthew Sartori Price guide $$$ Bookings Essential Wheelchair access Yes

If the name Wildflower suggests unruly, the reality is anything but. From the sincerity of the welcome to the parting gifts of sandalwood nut fudge and takeaway bush teas, the in-house restaurant at Como The Treasury is as polished as the rest of the hotel. Native ingredient­s are a recurring motif throughout your meal, from the whipped wattleseed butter served with the bread, to the jewels of finger lime adding a pop to cured snapper. Nasturtium and pickled discs of kohlrabi are played off against roasted marron; an onion soubise helps offset the heft of glossy wagyu. There might be edgier dishes and dining rooms around, but when you’re drinking from a cellar this deep and being looked after by one of the city’s premier floor teams, edgy seems irrelevant. A trio of sorbets (Jersey milk, rosella and chocolate) crowned with glassy shards of rosella make for a vista as pleasing as Wildflower’s rooftop views of the CBD.

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