ON THE PAS S

Can you tell us about how you developed the menu at Lola’s Level 1?

When I met [the owners] Manny and Marco, the idea was to do something more Mediterranean, not just Italian. I’m from Argentina but I have a Spanish background in my family, so I grew up in an Italian-Spanish environment.

I’m not afraid to see new things, to learn new things, and to taste.

What are some of your favourite dishes on the menu? I love the socarrat. It’s a crisp rice, which is not like a risotto or a paella – it’s a bit different. It took me a while to train the staff to do it because it’s quite tricky. I also love the pan tumaca, which is like a bruschetta, the only difference is we grate the tomato. That dish reminds me of my childhood.

So much of Spanish cooking is about preserved goods, such as anchovies and jamón. How did you settle on the perfect ones to use?

It took me a long time to find the right anchovies. There are brands that are super famous, but to me too salty. Once I did a tasting of 15 different types of Cantabrian anchovies – it was insane. I tried the Don Bocarte – they are amazing, so delicate and elegant. The flavour is beautiful but not too overpowering, and the olive oil they use is of an amazing quality, too.

You also cook with a charcoal grill. How did that come about?

When I arrived in the kitchen there was only a flat grill. I said, unless I have a charcoal, I’m not going to be here. Now we’re planning to increase the size of it, because charcoal is the life of the menu.

Lola’s Level 1, 180-186 Campbell Pde, Bondi Beach, lolaslevel1.com.au