SMOOTH OPERATOR
Debonaire newcomer Rothwell’s is tailored to deliver good times, writes FIONA DONNELLY.
There’s jazz queen Ella Fitzgerald on the sound system, an icy
Gin Martini at my elbow and oysters and steak tartare on order. As introductions to new restaurants go, this one’s starting well.
You’d expect nothing less given the operators’ pedigree. Named for the heritage building it calls home, Rothwell’s is a stylishly urbane undertaking, conjured by Dan Clark, of 1889 Enoteca, and Ben Russell, former head chef at Aria Brisbane.
These owners are veterans, sharing an impressive array of know-how between them. Perhaps as a consequence Rothwell’s feels established, even though it only arrived in November.
A 30-seat lobby bar with a dramatic copper-topped counter sits just inside the front door, with large windows to Edward Street offering views of shiny Gucci advertisements.
It’s fitting alcohol comes first here, as drinks are taken seriously. In addition to being co-owner of 1889 Enoteca, Clark’s other day job is Addley Clark Fine Wines. Buffs will likely want the long and short wine list – although the shortlist is studded with more than sufficient choice for most, including an interesting blanc de blancs by the glass by Champagne house Barrat-Masson.
The dining room is swish. There are chandeliers, an abundance of mirrors, green leather horseshoe booths and a profusion of silver accoutrements all in tune with the building’s storied exterior.
The décor chimes with the menu too. This pays tribute to the golden age of dining – rich beef Wellington with red wine sauce, celebratory seafood platters for two and Moreton Bay bugs shiny with Café de Paris butter. An assortment of steaks are served simply with onion rings and watercress, with complimentary condiments proffered at the table.
Centrestage, there’s a striking raw bar in marble, with counter seats for walk-ins. Our oysters, Royal Miyagi Pacifics from Tasmania, come out from here, prettily arrayed over ice on a silver platter, a dish of mignonette at the centre, lemon to the side.
A feisty fillet steak tartare, crowned with a beautifully fresh egg yolk, packs oomph. Abetted by a bowl of potato crisps for scooping, which come showered in paprika.
Oval monogrammed plates display a sea urchin-topped tangle of tagliarini to advantage. The pasta strands are generously coated with a citrus-forward sauce dressed with finely chopped chives, delicate urchin lobes and a sprinkle of black fish roe. The seasoning needs adjustment but there’s pepper and salt to hand.
Service is measured, almost leisurely. Waitstaff, smartly attired in retro box-style jackets, look the part. Our server notices the rib-eye we’ve ordered to share is unsliced and offers to return it. But the tricky cut of beef lands on the rarer side of medium-rare, particularly where flesh meets bone.
It’s cooling fast, so we carry on.
There’s a return to form when dessert appears. Dark, crisp-edged madeleines are hot and buttery and don’t strictly need the glossy whiskylaced caramel they’re accompanied by. But at Rothwell’s you’re unlikely to feel compelled to hold back.
Here, extravagance succeeds. ●