ON THE PASS

with ZACKARY FURST, BAR LIBERTY, MELBOURNE

How would you describe your cooking style?

I grew up in Albury-Wodonga and my dad and older brothers are both chefs. I have a Polish background, and even though I grew up inland, I now cook predominantly seafood. The mix is broad, but if you were to pinpoint my food, it would be extremely practical and hyper seasonal. I use a lot of fermentation and vinegar to preserve food. There are health benefits in terms of looking after gut health. That ties into how I’ve tweaked the food at Bar Liberty; I want people to eat the food and drink wine, and still feel light and happy, and be able to spend multiple hours there without having to be extremely full or intoxicated by the end.

Where does your interest in using vinegar and preserving things stem from?

When I was sous chef at Ides I had time to play around and research things. My partner is also part Japanese and she’s taught me a lot about fermentation and the traditional Japanese ways. There’s only so much you can learn from a chef’s take on fermentation, but when you delve into a culture and how they approach food there’s so much more. My interest in it also comes from my Polish heritage and the tradition of preserving out of necessity.

Working with the team, how do you approach pairing your food with wine?

Thankfully when it comes to the wine side of things we have Josh Begbie – his knowledge of natural wine and service is insane. We have a bit of everything for everyone, but we lean towards lighter reds and whites and minimal sulphur. We don’t always have a matched pairing, more a suggestion – it would be weird to tell people how to eat and drink, sitting at a bar called Bar Liberty. What I love about the place is you really do have the liberty to come in and just have one drink; drinks and a snack; or absolutely send it and have a great night.

What do you consider when making the perfect wine snack?

The weather is a key thing for me – you start to think about what people are drinking and what’s in season. If it’s the first bite at a wine bar, I prefer it to be quite acidic – punchy and pickled – that vinegar that hits your mouth and you’ve awoken for the meal, inviting you into the experience. So acid is a high thing, but also balancing fat and salt. Light and small ideally, too.

Bar Liberty, 234 Johnston St, Fitzroy, Vic, barliberty.com