DINNER THEATRE
Food and art collide in Mona’s new “revolving restaurant” concept for Faro, writes ALIX DAVIS.
When Faro opened at Hobart’s Museum of Old and New Art six years ago, it made headlines around the world for its black Margarita featuring a pig’s eyeball encased in ice. They were in on the joke and, post-pandemic, continued their tongue-in-cheek ways with a vow to create “Hobart’s second-best revolving restaurant”, giving line honours to the local casino’s tower-top venue. Their first “dinner and a show” outing was the riotous discord of Tokyo Punk with Japanese food and music, while their current iteration is El Culto de Espanã and a visit to Spain, transporting us to the parched hills of Andalucía by way of Hobart’s outer suburbs. I have very little idea of what is happening whenever I visit Mona, however, although the entire evening is performed in Spanish, there is a discernible and haunting theme of birth, marriage and mortality. After all, it wouldn’t be Mona if there wasn’t a little sex and death involved.
The best way to experience Mona is by catching the ferry from the city and arriving via the grand staircase. Set aside time to explore the gallery (listening to owner David Walsh’s “art wank” as you go) before winding your way through the numerous tunnels to enter Faro via a light installation by artist James Turrell. Lab-coated attendants are there to ensure you don’t fall off the catwalk and the soaring dining room is dominated by Turrell’s Unseen Seen.
Throughout the meal, performers sing, dance and wind their way through the room. Village maidens become flamenco dancers and brides, before widowhood sets in – all accompanied by three classical guitarists. The performance is engaging rather than intrusive and the guitars are both mellow and mesmerising. The six-course set menu begins with a plate of tapas and pintxos – a shot glass of onion and sherry soup is followed by a shard of toast topped with smoked tomato sorbet and olive emulsion while char-grilled baby corn topped with romesco sauce and Manchego is a sophisticated take on elote. Wines from Moorilla, the gallery’s vineyard, can be matched to the meal or ordered by the glass or bottle, and cocktails and alcohol-free drinks all have a Spanish flair.
Vibrant avocado gazpacho served with a savoury churro is given textural crunch by a roasted salt and vinegar pumpkin seed topping and top note of warm chilli. The salad course combines leafy greens with vegetable leather and jubes, as well as edible cellophane and comes with a plate of charred peppers and crisps.
Executive chef Vince Trim is committed to sustainable dining and the final main dish is wildharvested venison from South Australia, seared and served with a carrot purée, burnt onion and a splash of Pedro Ximénez.
The Mona team continues to innovate in both the gallery and restaurant space and is a must-see for any visitor (or resident) to Hobart.