MAGILL ESTATE RESTAURANT
Luxury among the vines is delivered with beautiful consistency, writes KATIE SPAIN.
An urban vineyard leads the way to Magill Estate Restaurant, just a 15-minute drive from Adelaide's CBD. The modern dining space is nestled against a historic Penfolds winery backdrop where nearly 180 years of winemaking history whispers on the breeze. As the seasons change, the leafy hues do too, which makes the view from the floor-to-ceiling windows an ever-changing spectacle. Lately, there's a new sense of excitement in the air. After nine years at the helm in the kitchen, executive chef and director Scott Huggins recently took ownership of the restaurant and its neighbouring (more casual) Magill Estate Kitchen. Huggins plans to shake things up. Until then, the restaurant and his ethos remain the same; to deliver dishes that are exceptionally tasty, with stellar service to back it up. The Magill Estate team delivers.
There are two tasting menus to choose from; seven courses for $220 or three for $150. Go large and things kicks off with “snacks” (something Huggins is enthusiastic about). Hit after hit of morsels arrive, ranging from demure pink parfait macaroons, to bite-sized crumbed lamb brain with Japanese mustard (offal done right), mussels delicately stuffed with wagyu, sourdough crumpets with salty trout, and a chicken skin tart with whipped egg white, Japanese pickle, hung sour cream, chives and caviar – a mic drop moment. Regulars anticipate the chicken wing-meets-scallop and lobster dumpling; a fixture on the menu for six years and counting. Mains give local ingredients permission to shine; Ferguson lobster (served as a Japanese-inspired medley of texture in a shimmering abalone shell), and a skewer of Eyrewoolf Abalone wrapped in pork jowl potato bread.
A surprise honey and porcini sando was added to the menu after Huggins' wife Abbie hit Adelaide Hills foraging gold and a conversation-stopping cup of steaming, soul soothing chicken broth accompanies the punchy mushroom-poached handful. Paratha flatbread (great for soaking up juices) was inspired by a recipe perfected by the maître d's Indian grandmother – a nice touch. Smoked tuna tartare intermingled with tiny cubes of pickled cucumber (so pretty) and Southern fried quail is best dunked in the quail egg perched on ranch-style sauce. A lamb Wellington (the delicate kind) and petit fours rounds things off.
If desired, Penfolds wines are poured every step of the way; there's an icon wine pairing, a sommelier's wine pairing or vintage wine pairing to choose from. It's luxe, without being overwhelming and for all the attention to detail and grace, offers unbelievably great bang for your special occasion buck.