2016 Ogier Condrieu La Combe de Malleval

FRANCE Made from vines with an average age of 25 years, this dashing viognier was fermented in large oak barrels and foudres, and spent 10 months on lees too. The result is a smart wine with plump apricot and vanilla spice for depth, with fine-tuned acidity cutting through any notion of oiliness, and a salty minerality towards the end. Great stuff.

11% alc. $94, drink by 2026