FIVE TO TRY.
GONZALEZ BYASS
One of the oldest and largest bodegas in the region, Gonzalez Byass (pictured below) makes Tio Pepe, the world’s top-selling fino, and is a pioneer of the en rama style, which comes from just 60 of their 20,000 barrels. Their amontillado sees 12 years in barrel, and among their other wines is a stunning ‘Alfonso’ oloroso. Sherry is in the blood here – cellarmaster Antonio Flores was born onsite above the barrel room.
EQUIPO NAVAZOS
This is one of my favourite wineries on the planet. They are revolutionising sherry, glass by glass. Production is small. The operation is from three friends who travel the region seeking out stellar barrels unused by the bodegas. Among their easier-to-find offerings are their fino called I Think, their en rama, and PX. Quality across the board is magical.
CAYETANO DEL PINO
A curiosity in the region, this
almacenista, or small company, can produce or procure sherry, but not sell direct to the market. Instead, they sell to bodegas like Lustau or in this case, Sanchez Romate. There were once many operations of this type, but now there are just 15. Cayetano del Pino is famous for its brilliant palo cortado.
DELGADO ZULETA
Famous for the extremely popular La Goya manzanilla, Delgado Zuleta was named after a flamenco dancer. Its manzanilla pasada is a richer and slightly more complex version of manzanilla.
GUTIERREZ COLOSIA
This lovely bodega in Jerez deserves far more attention. It’s one of the few family operations with the daughters slowly taking over. The entire range impresses.