Lake Garda & Bar­dolino.

Halliday - - Verona, Italy -

It was blow­ing a gale on the af­ter­noon we stopped at Lake Garda; you could have head­lined the scene ‘Tourist Hair Runs Amok’. For­tu­nately, the Dis­ney­land­like cel­lar door at the nearby Zeni 1870 win­ery dives un­der­ground and out of the weather. There’s fun to be had in the sen­sory lab at the win­ery, open to all, but what’s in­ter­est­ing here is the dif­fer­ent take on red wine styles. Bar­dolino reds es­sen­tially use the same grapes va­ri­eties as Valpo­li­cella (based around rondinella, corv­ina and moli­nara) but the tech­niques used to make it are markedly dif­fer­ent and so too the re­sult­ing wines. They’re char­ac­terised by their lack of char­ac­ter in a way, or per­haps by their easy drink­a­bil­ity.

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