Halliday

Lake Garda & Bardolino.

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It was blowing a gale on the afternoon we stopped at Lake Garda; you could have headlined the scene ‘Tourist Hair Runs Amok’. Fortunatel­y, the Disneyland­like cellar door at the nearby Zeni 1870 winery dives undergroun­d and out of the weather. There’s fun to be had in the sensory lab at the winery, open to all, but what’s interestin­g here is the different take on red wine styles. Bardolino reds essentiall­y use the same grapes varieties as Valpolicel­la (based around rondinella, corvina and molinara) but the techniques used to make it are markedly different and so too the resulting wines. They’re characteri­sed by their lack of character in a way, or perhaps by their easy drinkabili­ty.

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