2016 Yangarra Estate Vineyard High Sands McLaren Vale Grenache
YANG ARR A ESTATE VINEYARD, McLAREN VALE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
WINEMAKER Peter Fraser isn’t shy of a motoring analogy. Yangarra’s High Sands Grenache is so distinct from many traditional examples of the variety that Peter likens theirs to a grand prix car compared to a V8. “If flavours could talk, the High Sands would sound like a grand prix engine,” he says. “It’s the antithesis of those softer expressions with lower acid. There are some beautiful early-drinking styles out there – we make one ourselves – but just like shiraz and pinot noir, grenache can also make grand examples with great complexity and length.” Peter describes the High Sands style as having a sense of power. “But within that power, there’s a brightness and precision, and tension is a big word I like to use with that wine too,” he says. “If we were to drop that power, we would lose all the finesse and prettiness.”
Peter was in no way expecting a call from James Halliday, having already won the 2016 Winemaker of the Year, and the 2015 High Sands winning its varietal category last year. “When James told me about this award, I nearly fell over,” he says. “The High Sands is definitely our pinnacle wine, but there are so many amazing wines out there!”
Both Peter and viticulturist Michael Lane have been working with the grenache bush vines at the High Sands site since 1998 – “I’m a slow learner,” Peter quips. It’s a low-yielding and intensive site, and after working with it – and each other – for so long, the duo not only understands its ways, but also those of each other. “We tend to know where we’re each at and what we’re thinking, and we’re lucky to be building on what we’ve already learned,” Peter says. “We’ve got enough vintages under our belt, but we still go greyer with each vintage!” After such a long commitment to grenache, Peter is loving seeing the variety have its moment in the sun. “There’s a lot of attention being given to great grenache, and when you talk to the show judges, they’re so excited to see the grenache classes.”
Over time, the Yangarra team has planted other varieties that traditonally grow alongside grenache, including shiraz, mourvedre and roussanne, and the lesser known picpoul, bourboulenc and grenache blanc – the latter white particularly exciting Peter right now. “It’s textural and slightly citrusy but not overly fruity, being more savoury,” Peter says. “It’s also a little lighter and crunchier than roussanne, and we’re making it in a fresh style in ceramic eggs.” When asked about their recent success, Peter is quick to credit Michael and the rest of the team. “We do manage the site, but I think the site is well ahead of us,” Peter says. “All we can do is finesse it.”