Halliday

SHIRAZ AND BLENDS

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2019 Thomas Kiss Limited Release Hunter Valley Shiraz

From the sensory overhaul of Thomas’ quality single-vineyard expression­s, this one may win out. Not necessaril­y because it articulate­s the vineyard better than any other, but because the oak and grape tannins are handled with skill seldom seen in this country. Violet, blue/ black-fruit aspersions, anise and clove. Then a resinous emergence of forensical­ly detailed grape tannin and classy French oak. NG

13.8% alc. RRP $85 / 2035 / Thomas Wines thomaswine­s.com.au

2013 Keith Tulloch The Kester Hunter Valley Shiraz

A museum release, displaying how well a savoury mid-weighted Hunter shiraz shows with time. A mid brick ruby. Suave. Sophistica­ted. Polished leather and the avuncular comforts of a fireplace and an armchair. Five-spice, hoisin, duck lacquer. Lots going on. The finish, drying. I wouldn’t wait too long for this. At its best now. NG 13.8% alc. RRP $110 / 2026 / Keith Tulloch Wine keithtullo­chwine.com.au

2019 Purple Hands After Five Wine Co. Single Vineyard Barossa Valley Shiraz

A delightful, deep, vibrant purple hue and enticing depth of black cherry, satsuma plum, blackberry and fresh licorice straps define the essence of Williamsto­wn shiraz. Fine-grained tannins, high-cocoa dark chocolate French oak and nicely poised acidity all assume their rightful positions. It will age for the medium term, if you can possibly keep your hands off! TS 14.5% alc. RRP $45 / 2032 / Purple Hands Wines purplehand­swines.com.au

2018 Torbreck Vintners RunRig

The full might of the 2018 harvest is rolled up in RunRig. A full purple hue heralds dense layers of spicy dark berry fruits, subtly accented by the orange/apricot aromas of a judicious touch of viognier. French oak rises to the occasion with dark chocolate presence and great depth of firm, fine tannins. It concludes long and generous with sweet, warm alcohol. For lovers of bold Barossa. TS 15% alc. RRP $300 / 2033 / Torbreck Vintners torbreck.com

2019 Thomas The Dam Block Individual Vineyard Hunter Valley Shiraz

Across the dam from the lauded Kiss vineyard. Of a similar blue-fruited dispositio­n, the tannins assert more bitter chocolate but are less refined. Fullish bodied, but in the savoury regional style. Chewy finish. This pulls the saliva from the back of the mouth with an elastic timbre, whetting the palate for the next glass. The edgy tannins and teeming fruit serve up an intriguing tussle. NG 13.7% alc.

RRP $45 / 2035 / Thomas Wines thomaswine­s.com.au

2019 Quin Barossa Valley Shiraz

The spicy, characterf­ul mood of Greenock Creek comes alive in the great 2018 harvest. Medium purple hue. Black and red fruits of all kinds, mixed spice and an enticing violet fragrance, nicely lifted by a careful touch of whole bunches. Dark chocolate French oak sits squarely behind the fruit. Balanced acidity and medium-grained tannins coast through a long finish. TS 14.5% alc.

RRP $55 / 2028 / Quin Wines quinwines.com.au

2019 Mr Riggs Wine Company Piebald Adelaide Hills Syrah

Attractive bright purple in the glass and a compelling fragrance. In the past this wine has taken in some viognier, hence its name, though now it is pure shiraz in cooler-climate clothes. Spicy and tangy, just a touch of palate grip and bitterness to belt out a smart duet with a decent slice of barbecued rump steak. TL 14.5% alc.

RRP $30 / 2027 / Mr Riggs Wine Company mrriggs.com.au

2019 Brokenwood Hunter Valley Shiraz

When I think of Brokenwood, I think of this wine. The medium-bodied stalwart that showcases the savoury steadying hand that the Hunter imparts to its better wines. Red cherry, damson plum, baking spice, a seasoning of vanillin oak. There’s a loamy, earthen feel to the swathe of tannin, gentle enough to encroach upon, yet firm enough to ensure ageability. NG 13.5% alc.

RRP $50 / 2030 / Brokenwood brokenwood.com.au

2019 Soumah Hexham Single Vineyard Yarra Valley Syrah

An extremely powerful, complex, savoury palate with drive and length. Rhône inspiratio­n, but needs time to settle down. Worth cellaring. JH 14.5% alc.

RRP $40 / 2039 / SOUMAH soumah.com.au

2019 Thomas Deja Vu Individual Vineyard Hunter Valley Shiraz

An expression of a vineyard that has been picked considerab­ly earlier than other single-vineyard wines. The aromas, lilac and dried seaweed. Reductive, as is the wont here. Vibrant and persuasive of length, yet a skitter of hedgerow, green peppercorn and dill impart a verdant note to red cherry and Hunter varnish. A lively drink, best drunk on the cooler side. NG 12.7% alc.

RRP $35 / 2026 / Thomas Wines thomaswine­s.com.au

2017 Morgan Simpson Barcore McLaren Vale Shiraz Mataro

$20 buys a nourishing, rich mouthful of wine that is admirably savoury. A ferrous mataro burr across the back end. Loads of anise, sassafras, salami, violet and black cherry, but the firm plane of tannin makes this a winning ticket. NG 14.8% alc.

RRP $20 / 2025 / Morgan Simpson morgansimp­son.com.au

2019 Gemtree Uncut McLaren Vale Shiraz

For those looking for a full-bodied red that is stamped firmly with the regional postcode, all at a reasonable price, look no further. Aromas of baking spice, Christmas cake, black-fruit aspersions, anise and clove reverberat­e across a generous palate directed by classy French oak and a maritime salinity. Unfettered, generous and unpretenti­ous. NG 14.5% alc.

RRP $26 / 2028 / Gemtree Wines gemtreewin­es.com

2019 Angove Family Winemakers Wild Olive Organic McLaren Vale Shiraz

Solid. Fidelity to region in spades. Loads of flavour. Violet and boysenberr­y. Clove, bergamot and iodine. Black cherry liqueur. A gentle peppery swathe of tannins guiding it to decent length. NG 14.5% alc.

RRP $22 / 2025 / Angove Family Winemakers

angove.com.au

2019 Coriole Redstone McLaren Vale Shiraz

A meld of Blewitt fruit, with grapes from both Coriole and the warmer Willunga flats. A sassy shiraz, exceptiona­l for the price, boasting red-cherry scents, black plum, anise and clove. The tannins and acidity, a bit cagey, but the whole works far better than the sum of its parts. NG 14.5% alc.

RRP $20 / 2024 / Coriole coriole.com

2018 Wood Park Premium Reserve King Valley Shiraz Saperavi

The wild one! Get set for a super-savoury wine ride that might just push the boundaries for some drinkers. Embraces the world of charcuteri­e and game (a connection to saperavi’s Georgian roots perhaps), not to mention the grape’s high acidity and tannins. Not an easy wine to tame, hence the addition of shiraz. Dark forest berries and undergrowt­h, earth, roast-meat juices, fungal with wild herbs. Earthy, grippy tannins. JP 14.3% alc.

RRP $80 / 2030 / Wood Park woodparkwi­nes.com.au

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