2020 Dandelion Vineyards Lion’s Tooth of McLaren Vale Shiraz Riesling, McLaren Vale

What may seem incongruous makes sense: blending high-acid riesling (5%) with shiraz, a variety prone to overripeness in a climate this warm. Plenty of whole-bunch nourishment imparts a souk of spice, hints of mezcal and an echo of clove, while embellishing the tannic arsenal. This works very well.

The extraction, just right. The oak, well nestled amidst blueberry, anise and iodine. Fine succulent length, defined as much by the gritty tannins as the balanced saline freshness. NG 14% alc. RRP $40 / Drink 2021–2028 / Dandelion Vineyards www.dandelionvineyards.com.au