10 GREAT DURIF

Often, one of the first wines you taste and connect with is the wine that stays with you, year in, year out. One of the first wine regions I ever visited was Rutherglen. One of the first wines I tasted there – after muscat – was durif.

The red grape luxuriates in the warmth of North-East Victoria – with shiraz as a parent, it makes perfect sense – and I saw in its individuality and muscle, a wine that gave shiraz a run for its money. It can still do that, but it is such a small part of the durif story today.

Look beyond the blatant powerhouse types – and many winemakers are – and you will find strength of character AND poise. Not to mention versatility with makers exploring, as they do with shiraz, everything with the grape from rosé to table wine through to fortifieds. The reset button on durif has been pressed. Expect fine, lifted aromatics on some; the presence of spice is definitely an added treat on many a durif, while on others there can be an inky, dense, black earth savouriness, too.

Open your mind to durif – or petite sirah, as it is sometimes labelled – and a whole new world of wine awaits.

2019 All Saints Estate Durif Rutherglen

Pressed using a 136yo hand-cranked wooden basket press. Matured 22 months in 1–4yo French barriques and puncheons. The winemaker understands durif better than most, seeking out its elegant, polished side. This is the result. Blueberry, plums, dark chocolate and lively spice inhabit the glass. The grape’s noteworthy (aka formidable) tannins are putty in the maker’s hands, tamed and put to good use as the elegant backdrop for a flavoursome wine aided by sweet spicy oak. Signature Rutherglen style.

2019 Scion Fortrose Rutherglen

The winemaker chooses not to label this wine durif because he wishes the drinker to keep an open mind: this is to be applauded. The grape is often portrayed as a monster red, yet it can be far from it. Here, we see an elegance that deserves serious attention; dark fruited, blueberry, oak spice and rosemary aromas with a lilting floral thread. The essence of the grape is explored: its black heart and firm tannins delivered with fineness and all within a medium-bodied, complex wine. Durif can be beautiful. Here’s the proof.

2019 Billy Button Wines The Dapper Durif Alpine Valleys

Fermented wild, matured 18 months in large-format French oak (15% new). More immediately friendly and elegant than my memory of the 2018 vintage, although the same cellaring potential remains. Retains the deep garnet hues, the wild brambly and blackberry aromas, lively aromatics and spice, but the tannins are supple and fine bringing with them more immediate drinking pleasure. Think you know durif, think again.

2020 ATR Wines Hard Hill Road Petite Sirah Great Western

Working in the US, Adam Richardson developed a love for petite sirah – what we call durif in Oz – and he continues to call it thus, while also showering the grape in American oak. Toasty, choc-coconut oak is certainly a feature of the wine, together with an inky, dense, black, earthy savouriness. Aromatics are gorgeous – violet, anise, sage, bay leaf – decant and allow them to shine. A wine for cellaring.

2018 Morris CHM Rutherglen Durif

Matured in French and American oak. Fourthgeneration Morris winemaker, the legendary Charles ‘Mick’ Morris instilled a passion for durif in his son, David. Named in Mick’s honour, this is in the heroic mould of Rutherglen durif, one that relies on not broaching it too early.

Built to last, the base is formed of prominent mocha chocolate oak with overlays of rich, ripe black fruits, spiced plum pudding, tiramisu and a touch of mandarin peel. Tannins are staunch, structure is firm. Potential for ageing is almost endless.

2020 Domaine Asmara Infinity Heathcote Durif

Co-fermented with 2% viognier in a mix of barrel and stainless steel. Matured 15 months in French and American barriques (50% new). It’s hard to see where 2% viognier ended up in this resolutely old-school version of durif, which is deep, dense, darkly fruited and allround hearty stuff. Ripe plum, black berry, cedary oak, dark chocolate, vanilla and baking spices aplenty. Sturdy in build and thick in tannin, Infinity will relish time in the cellar.

2018 Cofield Quartz Vein Durif

An old-school approach to durif with the aim of making a wine of ‘immense depth and complexity,’ a style which will have its fans. Inky, black, dense, deep and strong; it delivers. A powerful entrance is made, wrapped in firm tannins and woodsy spice, but by mid palate the veil is lifted and some beautiful fruit is fully revealed. Quite a delight and age will be kind.

2019 Mt. Pilot Durif

Matured 18 months in French hogsheads (33% new). Durif was the first planting in 2000 at the Mt. Pilot vineyard. Another salutary lesson in never underestimating the degree of elegance that can be achieved with durif. The grape is very much misunderstood and it’s wines like these, with poise and beauty defining the grape’s more medium-bodied and spiced side, that will bring a deeper appreciation. And the grape’s so-called big tannins are pure silk here.

2019 Campbells Limited Release Rutherglen Durif

Matured 18 months in French and American puncheons prior to blending. Full bodied, yes, but nicely contained and well measured. Gives full expression to some considerable fruit power: plum, blackberry, cassis, aniseed and rosemary. Oak and tannins on song delivering a full, plush finish. Full respect to the fruit.

2015 Eldorado Road Four Nations Vintage Fortified

Durif, shiraz and tinta roriz fortified with low-strength spirit, the result a much lower baume wine with a perfumed bouquet and an elegant red-berried palate. Light colour with fresh flavours.