10 GREAT PINOT NOIR

I’ve always said that Melbourne, surrounded by pinot noir regions – from the Mornington Peninsula to the Yarra Valley, Geelong, Gippsland and the Macedon Ranges and with Tassie just a short flight away – is the epicentre of this variety in the Southern Hemisphere. And being Melbourne born and bred, I can’t remember a time when I didn’t love pinot!

Being thin skinned, pinot noir will never be as solidly coloured as cabernet or shiraz but I can’t think of another variety with pinot’s kaleidoscope of aromas; from lighter red fruits, such as strawberries and raspberries, through to darker ones like cherry and plum but also spice, floral notes and autumnal forest floor characters — or what the French call

sous bois — that comes with age in great pinot. Throw in its propensity for producing wines that are structured but with finer, silkier tannins than most red varieties and you also have wines that can be enjoyed in their youth. Finally, show me another red variety that pairs so well with food — from tuna and salmon steaks grilled on the barbecue through to quail, duck and basically any game bird you care to mention!

2021 Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir Yarra Valley

I’ve long considered the Applejack vineyard to be one of the greatest sites for pinot in Australia and I’m not sure I’ve seen a better version than the 2021. A deep, bright, crimson purple. Maraschino cherry into plum, there’s an exotic and riotous amalgam of Asian five-spice and a gentle savoury, umami character. What elevates this vintage is the concentration, along with Applejack’s trademark perfume and spice. Just so vibrant and fresh on the palate, the tannins are both silky and plentiful. You will have no problems opening and enjoying this now, but the wine’s track record suggests you’ll thank me if you still have some to drink 7–10 years from now, if not longer.

2021 Giant Steps Primavera Vineyard Pinot Noir Yarra Valley

From the Primavera vineyard at Woori Yallock, planted in 2001 on the same red soil as Wombat Creek. Both destemmed (55%) and whole-bunch components. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. A very bright crimson purple. So pure and perfumed with briary cherries, ripe redcurrants and freshly cut roses. Poised, juicy and energetic, the wine has so much tang and crunch, you barely notice that this is also structured finishing with long, gently puckering tannins. A wine with immediate appeal, but also one that will reward at least another 7-10 years in the cellar.

2021 Serrat Yarra Valley Pinot Noir

A brilliant, medium-deep crimson. There’s a lot going on here from the outset, with its wild, briary, red fruits, a ferrous character, violets, rose petals and a hint of sweet spice. Medium bodied, the palate is multi layered with fine, persistent and chalky tannins providing considerable backbone and structure. Tightly coiled at the moment, but bear in mind it has just recently been bottled. This will look even better in just a few months and will continue to improve for years to come.

2021 Seville Estate Old Vine Reserve Yarra Valley Pinot Noir

A bright, medium, crimson purple. A special wine from the first whiff, there’s aromas of red and black fruits, floral notes, spice-rack spices together with complex ferrous notes. Concentrated but pure, structured and balanced. A special wine in the making and one of the very best 2021 Yarra pinots I tasted for this year’s Companion. So long. Drink a bottle now but worth putting some away to enjoy; 10–15 years from now.

2020 Oakridge Wines Willowlake Yarra Valley Pinot Noir

From 1979 plantings at Gladysdale. Mainly whole berries with 10% whole bunches.

Two weeks’ fermentation with a couple of days’ cold soak and twice-daily pumpovers. Matured in both 300L and 500L casks (less than 10% new). Bright ruby. Subtle aromas of cranberries, quince, blood orange, fennel, lavender together with a little vanilla bean. Gently fleshy and compact, this also has excellent depth and concentration. This is deceptive, in that while it’s delicious now, the tension between the core of fine tannins and bright acidity gives the wine considerable structure and will reward your patience should you have the necessary restraint.

2020 Coldstream Hills Reserve Yarra Valley Pinot Noir

A medium, deep, crimson purple. Crushed strawberries, Asian spices, coriander seeds, rose petals and a gentle char can all be found in this superb pinot. Sappy and silky, with good flow and persistent, structured, but satiny tannins. The balance here is spot-on and while you can enjoy this now, it will only become more complex over the next 10 years.

2021 De Bortoli Phi Single Vineyard Yarra Valley Pinot Noir

Fermented with both whole berries and whole bunches and racked to barrique (1 new, 1 used) barrique for 9 months. A light, very bright crimson. Perfumed and bright as a button with its aromas of pomegranate, cranberries and strawberries along with a dusting of Asian spices. Equally bright on the palate, it’s not a big wine but it’s got good depth and it finishes with crisp acidity and fine, supple tannins giving this lovely wine structure and focus.

2021 Mayer Dr Mayer Yarra Valley Pinot Noir

Estate grown, 100% whole bunches and matured in seasoned oak. A medium, bright crimson red. Raspberries, mountain herbs from the whole bunches, and sweet spices as it opens up, all found in this youthful and concentrated wine. You will find pomegranate and blood oranges on the palate which is also saline and structured. The tannins are fine, yet tightly wound and this will only get better over the next 5–8 years.

2019 Punch Lance’s Vineyard Close Planted Pinot Noir Yarra Valley

A very bright, medium, crimson red. Lifted and aromatic with exotic forest-floor fruits, ferrous notes, pomegranate and whole-bunch-derived dried herbs and fennel seeds. The equally impressive palate is concentrated, layered and effortless. This is a pleasure to drink, even now. Ripe, fine and persistent tannins make for a wine that will provide years of enjoyment.

2021 Gundog Estate Burton McMahon Syme on Yarra Vineyard Pinot Noir Yarra Valley

70% whole berries and 30% whole bunches. Matured in 300L barrels (10% new) and older 500L barrels, all French. A bright, medium crimson. Poised with aromas of pomegranate, freshly picked strawberries and raspberries, as well as hints of cardamom and sandalwood. Equally good on the palate, which is nuanced, even and beautifully balanced. Subtle but with plenty of stuffing, this gorgeous and well-crafted wine finishes with fine, gentle but firm tannins.