★ PINOT NOIR

2020 Anderson Hill Single Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir, Lenswood

The best, 'most expressive' barrels of the vintage were selected for this reserve pinot. Brooding comes to mind as a descriptor here, also wild and autumnal: you get the drift. An abundance of black cherries, forest floor, baking spices, dried herbs and tilled earth combine with a degree of unsuspecting intensity and concentration. Tightly wrapped in vanillin oak and fine tannins, it waits quietly in bottle. Built to last. JP 13.5% alc.

RRP $80 / Drink 2028 / Anderson Hill ★★★★☆ andersonhill.com.au

2020 Bass Phillip Premium Old Vines Pinot Noir, Gippsland

A best-barrel selection. It's a sterling wine. Incredibly savoury with charcuterie, dried herbs and wafts of earth and autumn leaves with the oak both etched into and bolstering the palate. Fuller bodied but not weighty. This feels quite effortless, as the plush tannins and refreshing acidity work towards a lingering, very long finish. Quite a beauty. JF 14.2% alc.

RRP $250 / Drink 2040 / Bass Phillip ★★★★★ bassphillip.com

2020 Curly Flat Western Pinot Noir, Macedon Ranges

My pick of the 3 Curly Flat 2020 pinots, for its completeness and balance. This is composed, moreish and fabulous now, with its heady aromas of florals, forest floor and earthiness, to flavours of red cherries enmeshed in a light mix of baking spices. There’s a brightness within and while there’s plenty of tannin, this is more medium weighted, with a long persistent finish. JF 13.2% alc.

RRP $57 / Drink 2033 / Curly Flat ★★★★★ curlyflat.com

2021 Giant Steps Fatal Shore Pinot Noir, Southern Tasmania

From the Nocton vineyard in Coal River Valley. Hand picked by 10.30am, into a refrigerated container. The MV6 clone (60%) is whole bunches and the D5V12 clone is fully destemmed. All barriques, 20% new. A gorgeous, bright, crimson. Perfumed and seductive, this leaps out of the glass with an array of aromas including red and black fruits, peony, Asian spices, orange peel and a hint of fresh vanilla bean. More sweet fruited and textured on the mid palate compared to the more fine-boned and linear Yarra singlevineyard pinots. Concentrated but not heavy, with ripe, gently chewy and persistent tannins rounding out an impressive and still quite tightly wound wine, that will need another year or 2 to relax and really hit its straps. PR 13.5% alc.

RRP $75 / Drink 2029 / Giant Steps ★★★★★ giantstepswine.com.au

2019 Lethbridge Wines Mietta Pinot Noir, Geelong

From a 'fast and furious' vintage comes a lively, spice-laden, brightly fruited pinot upbeat in red berries, wild raspberry, exotic spice and a sappy, undergrowth complexity. And that's just the bouquet. Svelte and even, fine in tannins with a most sustained finish with spice and anise in action. JP 13.5% alc.

RRP $110 / Drink 2028 / Lethbridge Wines ★★★★★ lethbridgewines.com

2020 Riversdale Estate Centaurus Pinot Noir, Tasmania

From a single vineyard in the Coal River Valley; barrel and parcel selection. The best reserve-style pinots distinguish themselves from their estate counterparts not by more volume or impact but through greater polish, purity, texture and fragrant allure. There's a compelling elegance at play here, unashamedly red fruited and wonderfully floral and light on its feet, from start to enduring finish. Fine-grained mineral tannins and lively acidity are pitched perfectly to the restrained mood of this cool season. Very much more Chambolle-Musigny than GevreyChambertin and I love it for that! TS 13% alc.

RRP $62 / Drink 2030 / Riversdale Estate ★★★★★ riversdaleestate.com.au

2020 Stefano Lubiana Pinot Noir, Tasmania

There is something compelling about the coiled reticence of a cool season on the Derwent. Intricately structured with fineboned tannins and nicely toned acid drive, this is a vintage for the cellar. There is much more integrity, persistence and definition wrapped in its folds than first glances suggest. Its elegant rose petal and red cherry fruit will emerge in time. Patience will be rewarded. TS 13% alc.

RRP $62 / Drink 2038 / Stefano ★★★★★ Lubiana slw.com.au

2021 Stonier Wines Georgica Vineyard Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula

Merron’s vineyard was recently sold and renamed Georgica. As usual, no new oak used and the fruit clarity shines through. A heady fragrance delights, so too, sweet cherries, a dash of kirsch, some pips and woodsy spices, yet all glossy and detailed across the mediumbodied palate. Superfine tannins and acidity to close. Beautiful wine. JF 13.8% alc.

RRP $55 / Drink 2031 / Stonier Wines ★★★★★ stonier.com.au