★ OTHER REDS

2020 bakkheia The Groszman Graciano, Geographe

This is a brilliant graciano. It perfectly harnesses the black gritty tannins and the midnight licorice fruit the variety is so capable of, and whips them hard down the track. Go faster. A stream of toasted exotic spice, black tea and a profusion of blackberries in their wake. Very good indeed. EL 14.2% alc.

RRP $35 / Drink 2029 / bakkheia ★★★★☆ bakkheia.com.au

2021 Coates Wines The Mourvèdre, McLaren Vale

Fermented wild. Unfined and unfiltered. The sort of wine, unfettered and pure of intent, that could be considerably more expensive. Blueberry and florals. A twine of ferrous tannic persuasion, dried tobacco and a verdant smattering of herb. The finish, long and persuasive. NG 14% alc.

RRP $35 / Drink 2031 / Coates Wines ★★★★☆ coates-wines.com

2019 Gipsie Jack Wine Co Dolcetto, Langhorne Creek

Light ruby-red hue; the aromas, flavours and light- to medium-bodied palate are all encapsulated by the colour. It's red-fruit dominant, the mouthfeel beguiling, with silky tannins and a fresh finish. Truly delicious, great value. Trophy and gold medal Best Alternative Variety (White or Red) Langhorne Creek Wine Show ’21. JH 14.5% alc.

RRP $22 / Drink 2029 / Gipsie Jack Wine Co ★★★★★ gipsiejack.com.au

2020 Handpicked Wines Trial Batch Nebbiolo, Pyrenees

Seductive aromas of cherries and pips, tar and roses, damp earth and potpourri. The palate is far from weighty, almost lighter framed for nebbiolo, but the tannins have some give and grip on the finish, with plenty of acidity keeping it buoyant. It’s neatly pitched. There’s enough complexity matched to the refreshment factor to drink this now or leave for a few years. JF 13.8% alc.

RRP $29 / Drink 2028 / Handpicked Wines ★★★★★ handpickedwines.com.au

2019 Hentley Farm Wines Zinfandel, Barossa Valley

I don't see enough zinfandel floating past my olfactory gear. I like it. Sure, more often than not it's fairly boozy but I love its rose petal notes and spicy depth, the raspberry flecks on the deep plummy fruits, its tannin flex amid a shimmering acid line with that little bit of alcohol heat on the finish. It's good hearty stuff. I'll die on that hill and I'll be immensely happy with the robust, spicy beverage I'll be imbibing at the time. It's lovely. DB 15.5% alc.

RRP $40 / Drink 2026 / Hentley Farm Wines ★★★★★ hentleyfarm.com.au

2020 Inkwell Infidels Primitivo, McLaren Vale

This address crafts what is likely the finest example of this southern Italian variety in Australia. The confluence of sweet bourbon American oak, French oak’s cedar, tamarind, pickled radish, bergamot and spiced cherry, with a sluice of dusty tannins corralling the fray, is delicious. A warm year packing some heat, but nothing obtuse. Long of finish and forceful of personality. NG 14.6% alc.

RRP $30 / Drink 2027 / Inkwell ★★★★☆ inkwellwines.com

2021 Nick O'Leary Wines Seven Gates Tempranillo, Canberra District

Fruit off 3 vineyards and different winemaking techniques adopted: 25% whole bunches, destemmed whole berries with extended maceration and carbonic maceration. The blend was aged in a combination of ceramic eggs, amphorae and used French puncheons for 10 months. More depth than a joven style, yet this retains such a purity of fruit. Red currants and cherries come infused with sarsaparilla, woodsy spices and turmeric.

The medium-bodied palate delights with bright acidity with some tension throughout and spot-on decisive tempranillo tannins. JF 13.5% alc.

RRP $32 / Drink 2028 / Nick O'Leary Wines ★★★★☆ nickolearywines.com.au

2019 Cobaw Ridge Lagrein, Macedon Ranges

A variety where the colour – an exuberant and compelling deep purple – kickstarts the joy. It’s cooling, with alpine herbs, ironstone, freshly rolled tobacco and pepper but really, it’s a symphony of cherries from black, spiced, macerated to morello. The lithe acidity and shapely tannins are hand-in-hand. It's refreshing and ready now, with a pleasing if astringent finish, but it will garner more complexity in time.

JF 12.7% alc. RRP $85 / Drink 2029 / Cobaw Ridge ★★★★★ cobawridge.com.au

2021 Pizzini Teroldego, King Valley

A very Italian interpretation of a very Italian grape variety: dense, dark, high in tannin, dry as the desert and intended to accompany food. And so exotic! Tilled earth, bracken, blueberry, wild mountain herbs, bitter chocolate, prune and so it goes on. Bring on the cheese. JP 13.2% alc.

RRP $28 / Drink 2028 / Pizzini ★★★★★ pizzini.com.au

2021 Sittella Wines Tinta Rouge, Swan Valley

This is a cracking wine. It's not complex or too serious, but it has enough graphite mineral spice running down its spine to keep things cool and interesting, while the juicy, buoyant fruit keeps things lively and exciting. Honestly, it's a winner. So marginally different in blend each year, that's I've stopped paying attention. I like it. That's it. EL 14.5% alc.

RRP $20 / Drink 2026 / Sittella Wines ★★★★★ sittella.com.au

2019 Stanton & Killeen Wines Fortitude Durif, Rutherglen

Yes, it's a Rutherglen durif. No, it's not turned up to 11, in fact, it's an excellent study in how to contain the grape's inherent power while also bringing to light its more aromatic, spice-laden, berry-chocolate and rosemary and pepper side. And there's more where that came from, in this delightfully complex and complete wine. JP 13.8% alc.

RRP $38 / Drink 2033 / Stanton & Killeen Wines ★★★★★ stantonandkilleen.com.au

2021 Zonte's Footstep Violet Beauregard Malbec, Langhorne Creek

Sourced from 2 blocks on a single vineyard. Deeply coloured, and matured for up to 12 months in new and used puncheons. Standard no-frills vinification, but this is a wine that is anything but standard. Its depth and breadth of dark berry fruits, licorice, spice and plum coat the palate with flavours that draw you back up repeatedly. Wonderful stuff: hail the vintage! JH 14% alc.

RRP $30 / Drink 2032 / Zonte's Footstep ★★★★☆ zontesfootstep.com.au