★ SPARKLING ★ SWEET AND FORTIFIEDS

2017 Apogee Deluxe Brut, Tasmania

61/39% pinot noir/chardonnay. I love the cooler 2017 vintage in Pipers River, and Andrew Pirie has captured its crystalline tension with impressive clarity. Pinot noir leads out, the rose petal and Turkish delight signature of the region present, if a little subdued by oxidative handling, bringing out more of a spicy red apple mood. Chardonnay draws out a high-strung finish of impressive drive and crunchy grapefruit brightness, promising grand endurance. Subtle brioche and ginger nut are the blessing of 47 months lees age, integrated with subtle dosage. TS 12.5% alc.

RRP $70 / Drink 2029 / Apogee ★★★★☆ apogeetasmania.com

2021 Dal Zotto Wines Pucino VP Prosecco, King Valley

A different look for the popular Pucino, with a vintage release that brings added complexity and introduces a touch of savouriness. Aromas embrace a core of citrus and apple and then explore baked quince, white peach, orange peel and acacia. The 2021 vintage was a ripper in the King Valley, and there's good natural balance and texture here, together with a concentrated flavour that finishes with a thread of intriguing preserved lemon. JP 10.5% alc.

RRP $27 / Drink 2022 / Dal Zotto Wines ★★★★★ dalzotto.com.au

2011 Grampians Estate Kelly's Welcome Cuvée, Western Victoria Zone

Another sparkling that winemaker, Tom Guthrie, 'forgot' and hence saw 9.5 years on lees. Dosage 10g/L. A complex floral and citrus nose with additional yeasty complexity, grilled nuts and toasted bread. Belies its age with an assertive, crisp freshness and concentrated grapefruit, citrus, quince and orange rind flavours. JP 11.5% alc.

RRP $50 / Drink 2022 / Grampians Estate ★★★★★ grampiansestate.com.au

2017 Lowestoft Rosé Méthode Traditionnelle Pinot Noir, Tasmania

There's something mighty compelling about the texture and perfume of 100% pinot noir sparkling rosé in Tasmania, seldom achieved outside the A-list of Piper's River. For Lowestoft to attain it in southern Tasmania is a staggering achievement in itself, to do it on their first attempt is monumental. No surprise that Natalie Fryar is in the wings! Delightful, spicy, lively berry fruits deliver crunch and tang, impeccably framed by the creamy texture of lees age. Outstanding line, length and sheer, bountiful joy. TS 12.5% alc.

RRP $85 / Drink 2023 / Lowestof ★★★★☆ t fogarty.wine

2009 Sittella Wines Grand Vintage Late Disgorged, Pemberton

50/50% pinot noir/chardonnay. On lees for 12 years. The first release. In the mouth this has a superfine mousse, and is laden with cheesecloth, crushed nuts (walnuts, almond meal and more), double cream, brine and salted citrus. There is a voluminous, generosity of fruit here, meaning you can drink this now with pleasure – it's more than ready. It'll make you stop and think as you drink...a wonderful thing. 10 dozen made. EL 12.5% alc.

RRP $120 / Drink 2025 / Sittella Wines ★★★★★ sittella.com.au

2021 Craigow Dessert Riesling, Tasmania

An exuberant exoticism of fig, orange and honey is set off by toasty, spicy nuances of fermentation in old oak puncheons. Perfect ripeness delivers wonderful body and richness, with sweetness well judged to ensure that the vibrant acidity of the cool 2021 vintage remains the hero of a long and enduring finish. Delightful. 375mL. TS 8.8% alc.

RRP $39 / Drink 2046 / Craigow ★★★★★ craigow.com.au

NV Chambers Rosewood Rare Muscadelle, Rutherglen

It is believed that Rosewood's third-generation winemaker, Will Chambers, started this solera in the 1890s. Hence, the drinker is paying for a taste of history. It's a divine encounter with immense concentration, intensity of flavour and an expert eye on freshness, too. Devour the dense, baroque-like sweetness of caramel butterscotch, chocolate-covered citrus peel, Saunders malt extract, raisin and toastedalmond rancio flavours that never end. Magical! 375ml. JP 18% alc.

RRP $250 / Drink 2022 / Chambers Rosewood ★★★★★ chambersrosewood.com.au

NV Morris Old Premium Rare Topaque, Rutherglen

The perpetual understudy to Rutherglen's more celebrated and vivacious muscat, Morris lifts Topaque – aka muscadelle – up to where it belongs, as an equal. The perfume envelopes the drinker, the palate astounds in waves of dried fruit, toffee, honey cake, caramel and roasted nuts, luscious but nicely kept trim and clean in neutral spirit. The work of a master. 500ml bottle. JP 17.5% alc.

RRP $90 / Drink 2022 / Morris ★★★★★ morriswines.com

NV Pfeiffer Wines Seriously Nutty Medium Dry Apera, Rutherglen

A blend of palomino and monbadon. A work of art by any reckoning, not to mention patience. A wine to get lost in, with layers of roasted nutty flor yeast, dried fruits, honey, apricot and orange peel, all brought to a vibrant liveliness with dry, clean acidity. 500ml. JP 21.5% alc.

RRP $50 / Drink 2022 / Pfeiffer Wines ★★★★★ pfeifferwines.com.au

2017 WayWood Wines LBVP Shiraz, McLaren Vale

The late-bottled (LB) evolution of 2017 VP, decanted to 100L barrels in 2019 for a further 2 years' maturation. Very smart. The spirit impeccably embedded into the fray of dark cherry, camphor, raspberry bon bon and molten black rock. A tautly arched bow of gritty, seamlessly melded tannins, corrals any excess. The finish, endless. Excellent domestic fortified. NG 19% alc.

RRP $40 / Drink 2040 / WayWood Wines ★★★★☆ waywoodwines.com

2021 Bloodwood Riesling, Orange

Such a generous and mellifluous departure from the more brittle South Australian expressions: lithe, long limbed, dry, juicy and yet, driven by an effortless undercarriage of vibrant mineral force more reminiscent of great Germanic gear. Glazed quince, apricot pith, preserved lemon, fennel, white pepper and tonic. The finish, a sublime confluence of natural acidity and gentle phenolic rails pulsing very long. A steal! Better, a fine wine indeed. NG 13.5% alc.

RRP $30 / Drink 2032 / Bloodwood ★★★★☆ bloodwood.biz

2020 Oakridge Wines Vineyard Series Willowlake Sauvignon, Yarra Valley

A single-vineyard sauvignon blanc made from grapes planted in Gladysdale in 1979. Made similarly to the chardonnays, this was wholebunched pressed to barrel where it spent 10 months on lees before being bottled. A wine that speaks of its location as much as its variety, with its cool aromas of lemon pith, lemon grass and greengage. Taut, chalky and linear on the palate. Lots to like here. PR 11.3% alc.

RRP $30 / Drink 2027 / Oakridge Wines ★★★★★ oakridgewines.com.au

2021 Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Chardonnay, Yarra Valley

A very bright green gold. Like all the singlevineyard chardonnays at Giant Steps in 2021, this was whole-bunch pressed and barrel fermented (15% new puncheons). Very bright and pure fruited, with its aromas of freshly poached apples, just-picked white peach and a little spice. The oak is already perfectly integrated. The flow and texture on the palate is seamless and I love that bit of 'chew' on the finish. PR 12.5% alc.

RRP $65 / Drink 2028 / Giant Steps ★★★★★ giantstepswine.com.au

2020 Kooyong Faultline Single Block Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula

Oh yeah. This is in a good spot. Tight and linear. It kick starts with a waft of florals, white stone fruit and no shortage of citrus tones. Superb line and length as the acidity joins the lees and oak in perfect balance. JF 13% alc. RRP $60 / Drink 2030 / Kooyong kooyongwines.com.au

2021 La Prova Fiano, Adelaide Hills

A tour de force of winemaking, the bouquet raising questions despatched to the 4 corners of the field by the palate, with its racy intensity of lemon and Meyer lemon in the lead; honey, nuts and salt flapping on the side. JH 13.3% alc.

RRP $28 / Drink 2027 / La Prova ★★★★☆ laprova.com.au

2021 Serrat Fourre-Tout, Yarra Valley

Fourre-Tout is a French word meaning 'catchall' and the 2021 is a blend of 80/15% barbera/ nebbiolo, with a blend of grenache noir and pinot noir making up the remainder. Some (5%) whole bunches, natural-yeast ferment and 16 days on skins with pumpovers only. Matured in older 500L French oak for 11 months. A deep, vibrant, crimson purple. Opens up with unctuous blueberries, satsuma plums, violets and mountain herbs. Smells super. And it tastes as good as it smells, with its core of densely-packed red and black fruits, plum skins, refreshing acidity and very fine, chalky tannins. Delicious now, I've got no doubt this also has the potential to become more complex over at least the next 5 years. PR 13% alc.

RRP $45 / Drink 2029 / Serrat ★★★★★ serrat.com.au

2020 Xanadu Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River

With 8/3% malbec/petit verdot. Matured for 14 months in French oak (40% new). Perfumed, pure and very pretty. The three 'p's' for success. In the mouth the wine is all that the nose promised, the very fine tannins curve and shape the fruit. Very smart. Tasted alongside wines 3+ times the price of this and it still held its own. The finish is creamy and svelte. EL 14% alc.

RRP $40 / Drink 2036 / Xanadu Wines ★★★★★ xanaduwines.com