2021 WELLINGTON & WOLFE RIESLING

Hugh McCullough is becoming ever more refined in the art of upholding the delicacy and detail in riesling, and this is his finest estate-grown release yet. Skin contact, old barrels, wild ferment, bâtonnage and just the slightest drop of RS are all played with masterful sensitivity to build harmony and beauty. But the real game here is pristine Tamar fruit: floral, tropical, racy and downright delicious. Irresistible now, and with plenty of mileage in the tank. Tyson Stelzer, 95 points