2017 Crittenden Estate Cri de Coeur Sous Voile Savagnin, Mornington Peninsula

Bearing witness to a wine’s creation – as in tasting all since its inception in 2011 and understanding the story behind sous voile – allows a picture to form. Winemaker Matt Campbell is credited with kickstarting the revolution à la Jura at Crittenden Estate and all I can say is, thank you. Oh and ’17, the finest to date. Spending nearly 4 years under flor and matched to an excellent vintage has created a complex, savoury and utterly compelling wine. Expect a harmony of grilled almonds, toffee praline, salted lemons, poached quince with mouth-watering, heady aldehydes. The palate is incredibly silky and long, yet has lots of tangy acidity too; it’s elegant and importantly, ultra-fresh and alive. What a wine. Alas, just 800 bottles made. JF 14.5% alc.