2021 Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley

Named after the Applejack eucalypts that surround the vineyard, which was planted at Gladysdale in 1997. Seven clones including 114, 115, MV6, D2V5, D5V15, Pommard and Abel! I’ve long considered the Applejack vineyard to be one of the greatest sites for pinot in Australia and I’m not sure I’ve seen a better version than the 2021. A deep, bright, crimson purple. Maraschino cherry into plum, there’s an exotic and riotous amalgam of Asian five-spice and a gentle savoury, umami character. What elevates this vintage is the concentration, along with Applejack’s trademark perfume and spice. Just so vibrant and fresh on the palate, the tannins are both silky and plentiful. You will have no problems opening and enjoying this now, but the wine’s track record suggests you’ll thank me if you still have some to drink 7–10 years from now, if not longer. PR 13.5% alc.