2020 Brash Higgins R/SM Field Blend Riesling Semillon, McLaren Vale

It took me a while to get my head around these bedfellows, planted – serendipitously as it turns out – alongside each other. I can only conclude that this wine is venerable. Stunning, even. Perhaps I was falling into the dull trap of seeking varietal personality when, in fact, this is all about place and a courageous textural interplay, from grainy truffled lees traits, to candied quince, rooibos and lemon-peel skinsy chutney, a staining degree of briny salinity and Blewitt Springs sandiness. The breadth of well-positioned oak, too. This drinks and feels like a top expression from the Loire, with an ersatz manzanilla-meets-maritime veil. Wow! NG 13.5% alc.