HEAD FOR THE HILLTOPS

This tiny-but-mighty region in New South Wales punches well above its weight when it comes to producing premium fruit.

WHILE TRADITIONALLY known for its cherries and stone fruit orchards, the Hilltops wine region, north-west of Canberra, is a grape growers’ paradise. Its cool climate, altitude, red granite loams and lack of frosts result in consistently high-quality fruit, which local vignerons and respected winemakers from other regions craft into memorable, premium wines.

While the region’s reputation was built on cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, today it’s also known as a champion of alternative varieties. As well as Spanish grapes albariño and tempranillo, you’ll find a wealth of Italian varieties including prosecco, pinot grigio, sangiovese, nebbiolo, fiano – even corvina and rondinella.

If you’re looking to taste the region’s spoils, here are three producers worth seeking out.

MOPPITY VINEYARDS

Although Jason and Alecia Brown’s Moppity Vineyards boasts some of the oldest vines in Southern NSW, innovation is at the heart of their approach. They’ve been on a journey of discovery with alternative varieties since releasing the region’s first tempranillo 10 years ago. However, they’re yet to find a variety that's likely to depose shiraz as their flagship. Their unique site produces a style of shiraz that marries warm-climate generosity and richness with cool-climate spice, fragrance and elegance.

Moppity Road, Young NSW moppity.com.au

2015 Moppity Vineyards Escalier Shiraz

Moppity’s flagship wine and winner of the Great Australian Shiraz Challenge. A complex nose of vibrant black fruit with brambly fruits, graphite, pepper and spice. Layered with sweet black fruits, dark chocolate and spice box. Super intense yet silky smooth.

FREEMAN VINEYARDS

Winemaker Brian Freeman is obsessed with corvina. While its just one of many Italian varieties the Hilltops-based winery grows, it’s certainly the most unique. Together with rondinella, another rare northern Italian variety, Brian uses corvina to make dry table wines, as well as rich and complex amarone and ripasso style wines using grapes that have been partially dried. You can try these wines at their Hilltops cellar door, complete with vineyard views, an open fireplace in winter, and complimentary cheese and salumi platters.

101 Prunevale Road, Prunevale NSW freemanvineyards.com.au

2017 FREEMAN Secco Rondinella Corvina

This mid-weight wine displays garnet red hues and aromas of spiced berries mingled with earthy cacao aromas and lingering umami notes. Inspired by northern Italy’s classic dried grape wine styles, it will continue to evolve for many years yet.

HUNGERFORD HILL

Although based in the Hunter Valley, Hungerford Hill senior winemaker Bryan Currie has been sourcing fruit from the Hilltops region for over a decade. It's used in several of their wines, including the award-winning 2022 Hungerford

Hill Hilltops Tempranillo. “Fruit from the Hilltops has nuance to it that can be lacking in the more extreme climates,” says Bryan. “The soil and climate allow for a great range of varietals to be grown here. Long gone are the days of just shiraz and chardonnay being planted. The land is ambitious and so are we.”

2450 Broke Road, Pokolbin NSW hungerfordhill.com.au

2022 Hungerford Hill Hilltops Tempranillo

Tempranillo ripens early and is perfectly suited to the cool climate of the Hilltops region. The hillside vineyards of red soil ensure intense black cherry fruit and a lush and savoury palate characteristic of the variety.