Harper’s Bazaar (Australia)

THE GREEK IS­LAND LESS TRAV­ELLED

Be­tween the main­land and Crete sits the vol­canic isle of MI­LOS, home to some of the world’s best seafood, an old pi­rate cove and the best vil­lage gos­sip you’ll ever eaves­drop on. HELEENA TRAHANAS gets to know the locals

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HELEENA TRAHANAS has a great job as pub­lic re­la­tions and mar­ket­ing direc­tor at Di­nosaur De­signs — the colour­ful resin jew­ellery and home­wares brand — and a fun side-hustle as co-founder of Alex and Trahanas, a life­style project that cu­rates Ital­ian linen shift-dresses and Apu­lian hand­painted ceram­ics. She re­cently took some time out of her busy Sydney sched­ule and headed straight for the Greek is­lands. Why Mi­los? Mi­los has some of the most stun­ning beaches I’ve ever ex­pe­ri­enced. My favourite was Kleft­iko Beach on the south­ern part of the is­land.the only way to get there is by boat, and it used to be a pi­rates’ hide­out. I loved diving off the yacht into the crys­tal-clear water and snorkellin­g in the caves.the water glowed dif­fer­ent shades of blue de­pend­ing on the light. It felt like I was in an­other world. Where did you stay? At Cap­tain Zep­pos Bou­tique Suites in the old fish­ing vil­lage of Pol­lo­nia. It’s run by Michalis, who knows ev­ery­thing about Mi­los and is the most hos­pitable per­son. I loved wak­ing up to the sea ev­ery morn­ing. It was only me­tres away — lit­er­ally my back­yard. Michalis has built a deck for guests to dive off into the water. A high­light was break­fast.there was some­thing dif­fer­ent ev­ery day, in­clud­ing spanako­pita (spinach pie), tiro­pita (cheese pie), watermelon cake, yo­ghurt, fruit, olives, eggs, jams, honey, bread — all made by Michalis’s mum with lo­cal pro­duce. What did you love? The idyl­lic beaches, the charm­ing Cy­cladic-style vil­lages, the im­pres­sive vol­canic land­scape, the great lo­cal cui­sine, the peo­ple, the cul­ture and the sun­rises and sun­sets. I love that Mi­los has main­tained an old-greece feel. It’s a lot qui­eter, less touristy and more chilled than the more well-trod­den Cy­cladic is­lands [such as San­torini and Mykonos]. I also loved lis­ten­ing in on the vil­lage gos­sip! Did you buy any­thing amaz­ing? Yes! I bought tra­di­tional treats from Kiv­o­tos ton Gef­seon in Pol­lo­nia: home­made lado­tyri (cheese drowned in olive oil) and wine from Kostan­ta­kis Cave Win­ery. But my favourite sou­venir was free: I spent hours sift­ing through rocks as they washed up onto the shore at Fyriplaka Beach — each is like a lit­tle sculp­tural art­work. What are your hol­i­day

beauty es­sen­tials? I use Ra­tio­nale day and night, in­clud­ing sun­screen. I use Rodin Olio Lusso hand and body cream and also bought some Kor­res mois­turiser in Mi­los. Moroc­canoil Curl Defin­ing Cream is my go-to hair prod­uct along with Oribe Crème for Style. I like to wear as lit­tle makeup as pos­si­ble. My bare es­sen­tials in­clude Stila foun­da­tion and Chante­caille mas­cara. I wear a Home Fra­grance by Hô­tel Costes and use By Terry Baume de Rose for my lips. What do you al­ways travel with? My head­phones and my Is­abel Marant black leather slides. Where to eat? Start the day with a Greek cof­fee at the bak­ery in Pol­lo­nia and end the night at As­takas, a res­tau­rant in Klima. It has the most amaz­ing view of the sun­set over the water and the brightly coloured fishermen’s houses along the shore. My favourite tav­ern in Mi­los was O Hamos!. It’s in a sweet gar­den in the town of Adamas. Ev­ery­thing was grown in the gar­den and the menu was pre­sented in Gucci-es­que flo­ral cov­ers.pol­lo­nia is known for its seafood tav­er­nas, which is great for me. I ate at Ar­mira, owned by Michalis’s cousin.the beet­root with gar­lic, and prawn ragout with pita were de­li­cious. Enalion is a fam­i­lyrun tav­erna in Pol­lo­nia, which served pitarakia (lo­calcheese pies) and a ten­der oc­to­pus stew flavoured with honey from Mi­los and Vin­santo, a sweet wine from San­torini. All the food was pre­pared by Moschoula, the grand­mother of the fam­ily. An­other great fish tav­erna is Ar­menáki, where we ate salt­baked lo­cally caught fish.

 ??  ?? Right from this im­age: Trahanas at Sarakiniko Beach, Mi­los; the ta­ble at O Hamos! tav­erna in Adamas; the is­land’s cap­i­tal, Plaka.
Right from this im­age: Trahanas at Sarakiniko Beach, Mi­los; the ta­ble at O Hamos! tav­erna in Adamas; the is­land’s cap­i­tal, Plaka.
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 ??  ?? Fat­ses snack bar in Plaka.
Fat­ses snack bar in Plaka.
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 ??  ?? Salt suites, Pol­lo­nia. Left: the fish­ing vil­lage of Man­drakia.
Salt suites, Pol­lo­nia. Left: the fish­ing vil­lage of Man­drakia.
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 ??  ?? The ta­ble at Fat­ses. Be­low: re­lax­ing by the deck at Cap­tain Zep­pos.
The ta­ble at Fat­ses. Be­low: re­lax­ing by the deck at Cap­tain Zep­pos.
 ??  ?? Fyriplaka Beach. Left: Louise Olsen ear­rings, $310, louise-olsen.com. Rodin Olio Lusso Crema Lux­ury Hand and Body Cream, $123.
Fyriplaka Beach. Left: Louise Olsen ear­rings, $310, louise-olsen.com. Rodin Olio Lusso Crema Lux­ury Hand and Body Cream, $123.
 ??  ?? The only way to reach Kleft­iko Beach is by boat. Right: grilled oc­topous and Greek salad at Me­dousa. Far right: Cap­tain Zep­pos Bou­tique Suites, Pol­lo­nia.
The only way to reach Kleft­iko Beach is by boat. Right: grilled oc­topous and Greek salad at Me­dousa. Far right: Cap­tain Zep­pos Bou­tique Suites, Pol­lo­nia.
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 ??  ?? M U S T P A C K A ’ S N E L E H Alex and Trahanas plate, $120, alexand­tra­hanas.com.
M U S T P A C K A ’ S N E L E H Alex and Trahanas plate, $120, alexand­tra­hanas.com.
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 ??  ?? Oribe Crème for Style, $58. Alex and Trahanas dress, $340, alexand­tra­hanas.com.
Oribe Crème for Style, $58. Alex and Trahanas dress, $340, alexand­tra­hanas.com.
 ??  ?? ATP Ate­lier shoes, $230, net-a-porter.com.
ATP Ate­lier shoes, $230, net-a-porter.com.
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 ??  ?? Mat­teau bikini top and bot­toms, $120 each, mat­teau-swim.com.
Mat­teau bikini top and bot­toms, $120 each, mat­teau-swim.com.
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 ??  ?? Gucci bag, $1890, 1300 442 878.
Gucci bag, $1890, 1300 442 878.

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