Harper’s Bazaar (Australia)
THE GREEK ISLAND LESS TRAVELLED
Between the mainland and Crete sits the volcanic isle of MILOS, home to some of the world’s best seafood, an old pirate cove and the best village gossip you’ll ever eavesdrop on. HELEENA TRAHANAS gets to know the locals
HELEENA TRAHANAS has a great job as public relations and marketing director at Dinosaur Designs — the colourful resin jewellery and homewares brand — and a fun side-hustle as co-founder of Alex and Trahanas, a lifestyle project that curates Italian linen shift-dresses and Apulian handpainted ceramics. She recently took some time out of her busy Sydney schedule and headed straight for the Greek islands. Why Milos? Milos has some of the most stunning beaches I’ve ever experienced. My favourite was Kleftiko Beach on the southern part of the island.the only way to get there is by boat, and it used to be a pirates’ hideout. I loved diving off the yacht into the crystal-clear water and snorkelling in the caves.the water glowed different shades of blue depending on the light. It felt like I was in another world. Where did you stay? At Captain Zeppos Boutique Suites in the old fishing village of Pollonia. It’s run by Michalis, who knows everything about Milos and is the most hospitable person. I loved waking up to the sea every morning. It was only metres away — literally my backyard. Michalis has built a deck for guests to dive off into the water. A highlight was breakfast.there was something different every day, including spanakopita (spinach pie), tiropita (cheese pie), watermelon cake, yoghurt, fruit, olives, eggs, jams, honey, bread — all made by Michalis’s mum with local produce. What did you love? The idyllic beaches, the charming Cycladic-style villages, the impressive volcanic landscape, the great local cuisine, the people, the culture and the sunrises and sunsets. I love that Milos has maintained an old-greece feel. It’s a lot quieter, less touristy and more chilled than the more well-trodden Cycladic islands [such as Santorini and Mykonos]. I also loved listening in on the village gossip! Did you buy anything amazing? Yes! I bought traditional treats from Kivotos ton Gefseon in Pollonia: homemade ladotyri (cheese drowned in olive oil) and wine from Kostantakis Cave Winery. But my favourite souvenir was free: I spent hours sifting through rocks as they washed up onto the shore at Fyriplaka Beach — each is like a little sculptural artwork. What are your holiday
beauty essentials? I use Rationale day and night, including sunscreen. I use Rodin Olio Lusso hand and body cream and also bought some Korres moisturiser in Milos. Moroccanoil Curl Defining Cream is my go-to hair product along with Oribe Crème for Style. I like to wear as little makeup as possible. My bare essentials include Stila foundation and Chantecaille mascara. I wear a Home Fragrance by Hôtel Costes and use By Terry Baume de Rose for my lips. What do you always travel with? My headphones and my Isabel Marant black leather slides. Where to eat? Start the day with a Greek coffee at the bakery in Pollonia and end the night at Astakas, a restaurant in Klima. It has the most amazing view of the sunset over the water and the brightly coloured fishermen’s houses along the shore. My favourite tavern in Milos was O Hamos!. It’s in a sweet garden in the town of Adamas. Everything was grown in the garden and the menu was presented in Gucci-esque floral covers.pollonia is known for its seafood tavernas, which is great for me. I ate at Armira, owned by Michalis’s cousin.the beetroot with garlic, and prawn ragout with pita were delicious. Enalion is a familyrun taverna in Pollonia, which served pitarakia (localcheese pies) and a tender octopus stew flavoured with honey from Milos and Vinsanto, a sweet wine from Santorini. All the food was prepared by Moschoula, the grandmother of the family. Another great fish taverna is Armenáki, where we ate saltbaked locally caught fish.