Traditional Tohoku
Lisa wagstaff heads to Tohoku to discover Japan’s world-famous culture, monuments and stunning scenery.
Orange sunrise, golden temple
01 Hirosaki Castle © Shutterstock 02 Snow monsters
My Japan Airlines flight is seamless and the fastest bag claim I’ve experienced – even with my oversized snowboarding bag. I am out of the airport and on a train bound for Tohoku, located in the northern part of Japan’s main island, in record time.
As a lover of the outdoors and Japanese culture, I am drawn to its six prefectures, each known for its natural beauty. I choose to head north to visit Matsushima, regarded as one of the top three most scenic places in Japan. Arriving at Matsushima in the morning, sunrise still glows across the bay’s 260 islands, which I view from Godaido, a small Buddhist temple.
After visiting Zuiganji Temple, I try the snack of choice in Matsushima: white fish cakes cooked over an open grill.
In Hiraizumi – an hour-and-a-half north – is the World Heritage-listed Chusonji Temple, with a museum and 15 pagodas, each dedicated to different prayers, including a pavilion to pray for eye health. The museum holds a number of Buddhist relics preserved for over 1000 years, but most impressive is the Golden Hall, decorated with gold leaf and gold dust, adorned with mother of pearl, hand-carved birds and gold coins.
I enjoy lunch at a nearby Buddhist restaurant. Being vegan doesn’t look so bad in Japan; I enjoy tofu served in four delicious ways alongside mushrooms and miso soup.
Snow-blanketed Iwate
I still get a buzz seeing snow, and as we enter the Iwate prefecture I watch out the window, spellbound, as the burnt-orange hills of southern Tohoku change to thick white layers, reminiscent of cake frosting. The countryside is incredibly beautiful and just when I think my day can’t get better we arrive at Appi Kogen Ski Resort.
The night-skiing at the resort is phenomenal, with access to plenty of terrain and three chairlifts to take you three-quarters of the way up the mountain. Our days at Appi have been of the bluebird variety, but there is still untouched powder under the chairlift and I ecstatically plough my board through it. I only see a handful of other riders and cherish the serenity of having the mountain to myself.
I board right up to the doorstep of the Appi Grand Hotel for a buffet dinner with cheese and chocolate fondue before heading to my room. It is huge, especially by Japanese standards, with two beds, space for a rollaway bed and a bathtub for soaking sore muscles. The best bit, though, is the stunning view of the mountain.
Hitting the rails
Japanese rail is not only efficient but also scenic. For a quirky experience, I catch a stove train in Goshogawara, in the Aomori prefecture. I’m greeted by a fish-like smell as coal is shovelled into pot-bellied stoves; its source the dried squid that locals (and I) cook over the coals. I feel adventurous as I nibble on the squid strips; it’s like a fish-flavoured jerky. The atmosphere on the train is so jovial I can’t stop myself from smiling.
In the Akita prefecture I take the Akita Nairiku railway down to Takanosu, enjoying the sight of the beautiful snow-coated countryside. The train’s decor celebrates the Akita dog, with canine-themed seat fabric, dog portraits and a life-size poster.
The best way to get around by train is with a JR East pass, offered to international visitors. It costs less than the return bullet train to Tokyo (which it covers) and can be used any five days within two weeks.
My last day in Tohoku is spent visiting the Hirosaki Castle historical site. Its striking red bridges against the pure white snow make for exquisite photos. It’s here that kids can dress up as a samurai or in a kimono. It is also where I sit down to a traditional meal and music from the three-stringed shamisen, which, after a big day of exploring, is the perfect place to be.
03 Lisa at Hirosaki Castle 04 Local cuisine. Images 03 & 04 © Lisa Wagstaff