A spoonful of Fraser
From sand and sea to stories, Mary Poppins to migrating humpbacks, the Fraser Coast casts a spell on visiting families, writes
Now Jetstar has reintroduced direct Sydney to Hervey Bay services, a 90-minute flight is all that stands between Sydneysiders and the substantial charms of the Fraser Coast. What better excuse to explore the region’s many delights?
Happiness is… Hervey Bay
Hervey Bay is the jewel in Queensland’s whalewatching crown, and humpbacks holiday here in sheltered waters to rest and play from mid-july until late November. Our visit is a touch early in the season, and the mighty mammals are still somewhere on the Humpback Highway. If only someone had tipped them off about those direct Jetstar flights.
We board a luxurious catamaran at Fishermans Wharf Marina. Co-skippered by Huxley, the cutest hound in Hervey Bay, Fraser Island Boat Charters ferries our crew out into the protected waters of the Great Sandy Strait, one of Queensland’s hottest sailing destinations, to watch the sun sink into the sea. If you prefer to DIY, you can nix the guide and play skipper for a day (or several) exploring the pristine beaches and islands on a bareboat self-drive charter – no experience or qualifications required.
The reward for an early start the next day is an explosive sunrise over historic Urangan Pier. Stretching out into the sea, it’s one of the longest in Australia, and as we stroll its length, we’re joined by other early risers: a fisherman, pelicans and a pod of dolphins.
Poppin’ into Maryborough
Just 25 minutes from Hervey Bay is Maryborough, a small town with a huge history that deserves a substantial slice of time from visitors. Its heritagerich streets are filled with colonial architectural
confections and large-scale murals that form the Maryborough Mural Trail, telling the many stories – both silly and serious – of the city’s past as a major industrial city. There are more tales of loss, triumph and spirit to be told at the Maryborough Military & Colonial Museum and the Gallipoli to Armistice Memorial that wends its way through tranquil Queen's Park.
Not many people realise that Mary Poppins was a Queenslander, at least in the creative sense. She was conceived here in the stories of her author, P.L. Travers, who was born here. The heritage-listed former bank that was her 'birthplace' has been transformed into The Story Bank. Designed to encourage education, literacy and creativity, it is a whimsical place that takes the kids on a fun and interactive journey through the storytelling process with Maryborough’s most magical Mary.
Enchanted island
K’gari – the now official Butchulla name for Fraser Island – means 'paradise', and it is as advertised. Just a ferry ride from the shores of Hervey Bay, the world’s largest sand island is not all blue water and long beaches, though neither are in short supply. It’s also home to epic dunes, freshwater lakes and creeks, and 83,365 hectares of protected forest.
If you’re short on time or big on detail, book a guided island tour with Fraser Explorer Tours and ask for Pete, a renowned photographer who will not only enlighten you with his enormous island knowledge, but also share tips on snaring the best snaps.
Tackling 75 Mile Beach is a must. An officially designated national highway, it doubles as a runway. Taking off and landing on a beach (one of only two places in the world you can, the other being Scotland’s Isle of Barra) on a scenic flight with Air Fraser Island is thrilling, as are the bird’s-eye views. If you’re not a small plane person, zooming along it in a 4WD with the waves lapping at our tyres proves just as fun.
One of the must-stop sites along the famous stretch of sand is the rusted, russet skeleton of the SS Maheno, a former passenger ship that was commissioned as a hospital ship during World War I and sent to aid the mounting casualties at Gallipoli. Named for the Maori word for ‘island’, Maheno would end her days on one, when a savage cyclone washed her ashore on K’gari, where she still remains some 80 years later. There are worse places to spend eternity. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a dingo checking out the sights.
Ocean swimming is nixed on Fraser as it is burdened with strong rip tides and the occasional great white. You can instead dig your toes into the soft silica sand and dive into the swirls of turquoise water at Boorangoora (Lake Mckenzie). Perched 100 metres above sea level and surrounded by scraggly scribbly gums, the exquisite lake is fed only by the purest rainwater and is entirely shark-free. Or stop to float down the fast-flowing freshwater of Eli Creek on a boogie board or tyre and, if you really want to submerge in saltwater, the Champagne Pools – a series of bluer-than-blue tidal pools – are the one spot saltwater swimming gets the thumbs up.
As for that forest, the UNESCO World Heritage-protected Pile Valley is the only place in the world where rainforests grow from sand, at 200 metres above sea level. Smattered as it is with clear water creeks, giant king ferns and fabulous fungi, the forest is so utterly enchanting I half expect a unicorn to prance out from between the towering 50-metre tall satinay trees. The fairytale island is, after all, frequented by princes... of the British variety.
Do as Harry and Meghan did, and Prince Charles before them, and check in to the award-winning Kingfisher Bay Resort. Designed to protect the island’s delicate ecosystem, the sustainable resort’s on-site Sand & Wood restaurant is especially fabulous for families. But the highlight for kids is undoubtedly the Junior Eco Rangers program, where young travellers can stargaze and share campfire stories as they learn all about the island’s unique environment.