Make it Maitland
Whether you’re seeking a restful retreat, keen on a creative quest or simply hooked on heritage holidays, Maitland is the must-visit destination for your next family weekend escape, writes aleney de winter.
From its rich history, vibrant arts and cultural scene and cornucopia of kid-friendly farm gates and gourmet food experiences, families are spoilt for choice when it comes to things to do in Maitland. You see, while its vineyard-packed Hunter Valley neighbours were busy luring visitors and admiring their own shiny reflection in a perfectly polished wine glass, historic Maitland – the region’s largest but often overlooked city – quietly got on with the job of becoming fabulous.
Wonderful wanderings
Resting on the picturesque banks of New South Wales’ Hunter River, the traditional land of the Wonnarua People, Maitland is just a 30-minute drive from Newcastle and a two-hour drive from Sydney, making it easy for us to pack up the kids – 13-year-old Raff and 10-year-old Marlo – to enjoy a weekend spent soaking up an attractive mix of city conveniences and country charm.
We’re old friends of the gorgeous region, so begin our weekend explorations with a little feathery and furry fun at Purple Pear Farm, one of the kids’ favourite spots. The brilliant biodynamic permaculture estate showcases sustainable food production and also hosts regular tours and nature farm play days (bookings are required). The play days provide a safe and nurturing space for kids and their carers to get their hands dirty, enjoy imaginative free play and craft, and to get up close to the frogs, dogs, goats and geese that call the family-owned farm home.
Inspired by our morning on the grounds, we stock up on fresh locally-grown and -made produce back in town for a picnic lunch at Maitland Park. The gorgeous garden boasts a kids’ playground, an Olympic-size solar-heated swimming pool facility including a shaded baby pool, and expansive green lawns that invite my cartwheeling kids to flip and whirl about until they fall in giddy glee.
Then it’s off to gaol! Steeped in Hunter history, Maitland Gaol, dating back to 1844, is a former maximum-security prison with the dubious honour of having held some of Australia’s most hardened criminals until it was decommissioned in 1998. We’re joined on our tour of the heritage-listed penitentiary by the ghostly ‘Snitch the Rat’, a virtual guide who entertains and educates the kids as he leads them on a self-guided audio adventure through the gaol’s cells. It’s one of the more unique things to do in Maitland with kids, though wannabe warden Marlo seemed more preoccupied with locking up her brother with her newly acquired novelty handcuffs than hearing all about the gaol’s secrets, stories, and fun and fascinating facts.
A feast of food
Maitland has thrown down the gastronomic gauntlet to claim its crown as one the Hunter’s best foodie destinations. So come dinner time, we hit the The Levee – a cool pedestrian strip running parallel to the Hunter River that is home to family-friendly eateries, entertainment and shopping.
We are spoiled for culinary choice, with dozens of incredible restaurants serving up everything from perfect pasta to marvellous Mexican, which wins the kids vote. Then we take a lovely riverside stroll to walk off our
burrito binge before heading to the bucolic Hunter River Retreat farm stay where peace and tranquility comes with a side of donkey.
Art and about
Maitland is one of those irresistibly charming arty types that hooks you in with its creative flair, and its artistic inclinations can be seen pretty much wherever you look. The city’s heritage buildings, many dating back to the mid-1800s, provide a canvas for faded ghost signs as well as lovely, lively installations and murals including the delightful The New One, which has my daughter utterly entranced.
The Maitland Regional Art Gallery, known locally as MRAG, is another favourite with my arty-farty twosome. But their affection isn’t only due to its collection of more than 6,000 works, world-class visiting exhibitions and fabulous federation Gothic structural features, though these are indeed impressive – it’s the gallery’s Free Art Sundays program of hands-on activities with MRAG art tutors, inspired by the exhibited artworks, that really floats their creative boat, allowing them a little creative output of their own.
Another great art space is The Levee Art Gallery and Studios, with three main gallery exhibition spaces and art workshops. It’s also the spot to stock up on art supplies to create some masterpieces of your own at home.
Fairy tales and fizz
A hand-painted blue sign on an old barn touting Dr Morse’s Indian Root Pills is one of the region’s most Instafamous icons, and welcomes us to the picture-book-pretty village of Morpeth. A historic Hunter River port that was an important hub in the colony’s trading network, the National Trust-listed town has more than a touch of vintage magic about it.
We take a stroll along the Morpeth Heritage Walk to uncover the region’s vibrant history, and grab the kids scooters for a twirl around Ray Lawler Reserve, often referred to as
Morpeth Common, a sprawling park with plenty of room for exploring.
Then it’s time to delve into the delights of the town’s perfectly preserved heritage buildings, each secreting unique shopping, artisan treasures and culinary delights. The kids enjoy a sugar rush in Miss Lily’s Lollies, a picket-fenced laneway candy store bursting with homemade fudge and confectionary. My littlest one is dizzy with delight on entering
Fairytale Lane, where everything from costumes and trinkets to Disney delights and designer dresses have been sprinkled in fairy dust. Including my wallet as my daughter magically makes my money disappear as she fills a bag with enchanted goodies.
And every member of our crew falls in love with the stunningly restored Campbell’s Store. This is Morpeth’s place to shop for more than 175 years, and there’s everything from quirky collectibles and vintage fashion to gourmet goodies within its sandstone walls. But it’s bottles of the deliciously fizzy ginger beer made on premises that follow us home.