Inside Out (Australia)

SMOOTH OPERATOR

Blending is a byword for creamy smoothness in delicious dairy-based desserts, as this acclaimed chef attests.

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Jacqui Challinor, the head chef of Nomad restaurant in Sydney’s Surry Hills, initially wanted to get into nutrition or food styling for magazine shoots. To that end she embarked on a TAFE catering course. “It was there that I realised I loved being in the kitchen instead!” The biggest obstacle to her change of career path was her own anxiety: “It’s very much a man’s world and I was hesitant about stepping into an apprentice­ship,” she explains. “But a friend who’d got tired of hearing me complainin­g said, ‘Just go for it!’ and so I did.” Jacqui apprentice­d under Christophe­r Whitehead at Mad Cow (“I can’t speak highly enough of him; really great guy and an excellent chef ”). An early role in a cafe, in which she was left largely to her own devices, was both a thrown-in-the-deepend environmen­t and “a great learning experience; I had creative freedom and I learnt a great deal, including self-reliance”. But it is her Maltese mother whom she credits with educating her on the special role food plays in life and as more than just a source of nutrients: “I grew up with those European, Mediterran­ean ideals around eating, where food is the centre of a family occasion. It’s about friendship and family coming together as a form of nourishmen­t.” It is this thought that stays front and centre for Jacqui’s sense of job satisfacti­on. “I love feeding people and making them happy,” she says. “I love cooking in a restaurant, knowing that it’s a place where people come together – to celebrate something, or just to spend time with each other – and I love the way the food I’m making is what brings them together.” In the recipe she has created for Pride & Produce, Jacqui uses olive oil sourced from Alto, a family-run operation that produces award-winning oil and table olives from its 20,000-tree farm in the foothills of the Great Dividing Range in New South Wales. Her star ingredient here is the cream – Countrysty­le Cream from Delicious Dairies in the Kyvalley region of northern Victoria, to be precise. It’s made its way into both the ice-cream and the homemade butter used in the shortbread. “It’s very versatile,” Jacqui says, adding that the free-to-roam cows produce cream with “a higher butter fat than most creams in the market”.

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