PAT NOURSE
Creative director of the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival
Most memorable dinner party? I’m a planner. I don’t know if it’s the sun in Virgo or OCD, but lists, menus, run-sheets – I love that stu . And yet I think some of my favourite dinner parties have been impromptu, let’s-go-back-to-my-place a airs. There’s something to be said for leaving some room for things to happen. Set the stage, but don’t stick to the script.
What will star in your summer entertaining plans? There has never been a better (or more important) time to buy local and independent. In Melbourne I’m spoilt by some of the best food shopping in the world (not least at the Queen Vic and Preston markets). When I hit the Hume, I’ll be loading up on cherries from Chiltern and Young at roadside stands. If I get down to the south coast of NSW, Tathra rock oysters will be front and centre. Go big on small producers. To drink? Lately I’ve had the pleasure of corresponding with the folks at Sailors Grave and Bridge Road Brewing, with the winemakers at Crawford River, Schmölzer & Brown, Dilworth & Allain, Latta Vino, Patrick Sullivan, Le Timbre and Crittenden, the cocktail geniuses at Bar Americano and The Everleigh, and many others besides. I’m blown away by the talent, and that’s just in Victoria alone. If you’re in Melbourne and need a good steer, pop into any branch of Blackhearts & Sparrows (they’re also in Hobart and Canberra) or into Mr West, City
Wine Shop or Cult Of The Vine; if you’re in Sydney, step into P&V, The Oak Barrel, Best Cellars or Winona. Any of them will be only too glad to help you out.
What song is your personal party starter? 54-46 Was My Number by the late, great Toots and The Maytals is hard to beat. For something recorded this century, Wildfires by Sault is my song of the year. But if you want to fill a dance floor, New Order’s Blue Monday is unimpeachable.
What constitutes a well-set table for you? When the lights are down and the music is up. The host is hosting, not cooking. The guests are there to have a good time and bring the noise rather than be passengers, and the food, drink and decorations provide the backdrop for the conversation, not its sole focus. I’d rather go to a great party with terrible food than a terrible party with great food. I’m not there to eat, I’m there to dine.