The wine­maker who went for Broke

Life & Style Weekend - - EASY EATING - with Regan Drew

GLENGUIN Es­tate was planted in the Broke sub-re­gion of the Hunter Val­ley in the 1980s from stock de­scended from James Busby’s orig­i­nal 1820s cutt­tings. Robin Ted­der (who be­came Aus­tralia’s sev­enth Mas­ter of Wine in the mid 1990s) came to know about the prop­erty from re­gional stal­wart Bruce Tyrrell and promptly saw the pos­si­bil­i­ties. Robin’s ex­pe­ri­enced brother An­drew farms the Glenguin vine­yard in or­ganic and bio­dy­namic meth­ods to pro­duce small but qual­ity out­puts. The re­cent re­cruit­ment of cel­lar door man­ager Phil Jones from Can­berra sees new en­ergy in wel­com­ing guests to try se­lected aged re­leases.

Stony­broke, Shi­raz, 2014

Only par­tially fer­mented in oak bar­rels to re­tain ex­pres­sive fruit qual­i­ties. Im­me­di­ately dam­son plum and blue­stone gravel aro­mas mix as sweet-savoury con­trast. Dusty choco­late, honey­suckle, vi­o­let and rasp­berry. Earthy but bright plummy ex­am­ple fin­ish­ing with soft tan­nins like a kit­ten’s lick. 300 cases made.

◗ RAT­ING: 8/10 ◗ RRP: $27.50 ◗ ALC: 13.5%

School­house Block, Shi­raz, 2014

The wine­mak­ing is ramped up with this cu­vee. 40% whole bunch fer­ment (that is, all the stalks along with the berries), French oak mat­u­ra­tion for 10 months. Far spicier than the fra­ter­nal Stony­broke de­rived from the fer­men­ta­tion and the mat­u­ra­tion: black pep­per, cin­na­mon and smoky to­bacco with a black­berry core.

◗ RAT­ING: 9/10 ◗ RRP: $45 ◗ Alc: 13.5%

Aris­tea, Shi­raz, 2009

De­lib­er­ately held back as an aged re­lease. Ma­tured for 12 months in French oak (50% new) along with 40% whole bunch press­ing. Dusty, plummy, ar­che­typ­i­cal Hunter shi­raz per­fume that wafts proudly of its her­itage. Medium bod­ied, red plum fruit and tart cherry nu­ances with a touch of cedary oak and spice. Fine tan­nins that of­fer po­ten­tial. 200 cases made.

◗ RAT­ING: 9/10 ◗ RRP: $80 ◗ Alc: 13.5%

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.