SHE’LL HOLD YOUR HAND

STEPHANIE ALEXAN­DER TAK­ING THE FEAR OUT OF FIRST-TIME COOKS

Life & Style Weekend - - MAGAZINE | RELAX - WORDS: KIRI TEN DOLLE

Noth­ing warms Stephanie Alexan­der’s heart more than see­ing lit­tle dirt­stained hands scratch in the veg­etable gar­den. Tiny fin­gers pluck the fruits of their labour from school­yard potagers des­tined for the kitchen. For many it’s the first time their taste­buds are tan­ta­lised by the for­eign flavours of some fruits, veg­eta­bles and herbs. Alexan­der’s name is syn­ony­mous with the book re­garded as the “bi­ble” in Aus­tralian kitchens. But for the doyenne of do­mes­tic­ity, The Cook’s Companion isn’t her proud­est achieve­ment. Rather it’s her phil­an­thropic feat in the Stephanie Alexan­der Kitchen Gar­den Foun­da­tion she founded in 2001 to ig­nite the palates of school­child­ren. Her ef­forts to sow the seed of healthy food habits into class­rooms re­sulted in Alexan­der be­ing ap­pointed an Of­fi­cer of the Or­der of Australia in 2014. To­day, more than 1500 schools have adopted the pro­gram across Australia, in­clud­ing more than 50 in Queens­land. “It’s the fuel that keeps me go­ing,” the 77-year-old says. “When I see the en­thu­si­asm and the chil­dren ex­plain to me how much the pro­gram means to them, I feel a real glow of pride. It’s the most im­por­tant thing I’ve done.” Teach­ing oth­ers to cook re­mains at the heart of what Alexan­der does, al­most five decades since she swapped li­brary shelves for the kitchen pass. It’s no sur­prise her lat­est book, The Cook’s Ap­pren­tice, the 18th in her cat­a­logue, was ini­tially in­spired by years of train­ing young ap­pren­tices and the need to teach teenagers ba­sic cook­ing tech­niques for adult­hood. “As I go around the coun­try, I’m re­al­is­ing there are a lot of adults, for all sorts of dif­fer­ent rea­sons, have sim­ply not learned how to cook. They feel paral­ysed by anx­i­ety,” she says, on the leg of her Queens­land book tour. “Some­times peo­ple have lost the cook in their fam­ily, through divorce or death. They re­alise sooner or later, they need to look af­ter them­selves and that in­cludes cook­ing food.” Alexan­der grew up in a small sea­side town on the Morn­ing­ton Penin­sula. With her book­ish ways, she went on to do an arts de­gree at Mel­bourne Univer­sity to train as a li­brar­ian, and later a Di­ploma of Ed­u­ca­tion. At 21, she left Australia to travel the world, namely France, where she be­came be­witched by the culi­nary world. “I was very for­tu­nate to come from a fam­ily that loved good, fresh food,” she says. Alexan­der’s an­tipodean ap­proach to food can be cred­ited to her mother, Mary Burchett. “My mother was a very good cook, but more than that, she was in­ter­ested in food as a way of ex­press­ing cul­ture. She was in­ter­ested in how peo­ple from dif­fer­ent parts of the world used a fresh in­gre­di­ent. As chil­dren, we were the ben­e­fi­cia­ries of that.” Some of Alexan­der’s hap­pi­est mem­o­ries are com­ing to­gether for a meal, but she says the din­ner ta­ble is in de­cline. “I grew up at a time just be­fore tele­vi­sion be­came ma­jor in peo­ple’s lives, so the fam­ily ta­ble was a very im­por­tant part of my day un­til I left home to go to univer­sity at 18. “If ev­ery­one is in­de­pen­dently chomp­ing down a meal else­where in the house, eat­ing con­ve­nience food, or food that’s been dumbed down so that it doesn’t of­fend any­one’s pow­ers – is not the way to raise chil­dren who need to con­tinue to feed them­selves for the rest of their lives. “A lot of the so­cial in­ter­ac­tion be­tween par­ents and chil­dren and grand­par­ents that can hap­pen when you get to­gether [to share a meal] is lost.” Alexan­der’s first foray into the restau­rant world fol­lowed her re­turn from Lon­don with first hus­band, Ja­maican-born Ru­pert Mon­tague. They opened Ja­maica House in Carl­ton just weeks af­ter the birth of Alexan­der’s first daugh­ter, Lisa. She ad­mits the time was try­ing and later led to the cou­ple’s split and the restau­rant’s clo­sure two years later. Seven years later in 1976, Alexan­der re­mar­ried Mau­rice Alexan­der, a bar­ris­ter, with whom she had a sec­ond daugh­ter, Holly. She opened Stephanie’s Restau­rant in Fitzroy, then in a grand homestead in Hawthorn, where she traded for more than two decades. The grand­mother doesn’t re­gret never train­ing as a pro­fes­sional chef. The Cook’s Companion “changed her life”. More than 500,000 copies have sold, and 22 years af­ter it came off the press, she is re­minded of its value in Aus­tralian kitchens. The lat­est, a grease-cov­ered copy with the cover torn from its spine, was pre­sented to her at a re­cent book sign­ing. Alexan­der takes that as the ul­ti­mate com­pli­ment. “I doubt that I’ll ever do an­other one. By the time of the sec­ond re­vi­sion, I’d added an­other 300 pages and an­other 10 chap­ters, sim­ply be­cause Aus­tralian food has moved and changed so much in 22 years.” The Cook’s Ap­pren­tice is some­what of a pre­quel to The Cook’s Companion. “I love that I am able to pass on to other peo­ple my nearly 50 years of ex­pe­ri­ence at a level that is en­cour­ag­ing, rather than fright­en­ing them with su­per glossy pic­tures that they can’t pos­si­bly hope to em­u­late or telling them they can fin­ish some­thing in five min­utes,” Alexan­der says. “I want to feel that I’m al­most hold­ing the hand of some­body who’s read­ing the recipe and they can say ‘I can do that’.” The Cook’s Ap­pren­tice (Lan­tern, RRP $45) is out now.

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