DARK KNIGHT

Jump on the time­less trend and in­ject some su­per­pow­ers into your home with this caped crusader-in­spired EPP master­piece

Love Patchwork & Quilting - - CONTENTS - BY TINA PRIOR

Jump on the trend and in­ject su­per­pow­ers into your home with this caped crusader-in­spired master­piece

NOTES

■ All seam al­lowances are ¼in, un­less oth­er­wise noted.

■ HST = Half-square Tri­an­gle.

■ RST = right sides together.

■ WOF = width of fab­ric.

■ WST = wrong sides together.

■ EPP = English Pa­per Piec­ing

■ EPP tem­plates do not in­clude seam al­lowance.

■ For tem­plates see page 89.

■ Press fab­rics well be­fore cut­ting.

FAB­RICS USED

■ Print fab­rics for the masks and stars are from Tina’s stash.

■ Back­ground fab­ric is a Kona Cot­ton Solid in White by Robert Kauf­man.

CUT­TING OUT

1

From each of twelve (12) prints cut:

■ One (1) 2½in square.

■ Two (2) 3¼in squares. Cut each square di­ag­o­nally in half to cre­ate four (4) tri­an­gles.

Save the re­main­ing fab­ric for bast­ing the EPP pieces.

2

From each of four (4) prints (dif­fer­ent from step 1) cut:

■ One (1) 2½in square.

■ One (1) 3in square.

■ Two (2) 3¼in squares. Cut each square di­ag­o­nally in half to cre­ate four (4) tri­an­gles (you will only use three).

3

From the back­ground fab­ric cut:

■ Twelve (12) 2½in x 4½in pieces.

■ Four (4) 3in squares.

■ Four (4) 22½in x 4½in pieces.

■ Two (2) 20½in x 4½in pieces.

■ Two (2) 33½in x 4½in pieces.

■ Thirty one (31) 10½in x 2½in pieces. Save the re­main­ing fab­ric for bast­ing the EPP pieces.

4

From the bind­ing fab­ric cut:

■ Seven (7) 2½in x WOF strips.

PRE­PAR­ING THE EPP

5

To baste the EPP shapes, se­cure a tem­plate to the wrong side of the fab­ric with a dot of glue or a pin. Cut out, leav­ing a ¼in seam al­lowance all around the edges.

6

Baste the fab­ric around each tem­plate, glu­ing down the sides one at a time with a fab­ric glue pen. Baste all twenty copies of Tem­plates 1B–11B us­ing back­ground fab­ric.

VISIT GOTHAM CITY WITH A STRIK­ING RE­PEAT PAT­TERN IN THIS BLOCK­BUSTER OF A QUILT

7

Choose one of your print fab­rics. Baste one copy each of Tem­plates 1A–9A. Re­peat with each print fab­ric, so you have twenty sets of the tem­plates, one set in each print fab­ric.

PIEC­ING THE MASK BLOCKS

8

Take a basted Tem­plate 1A and 1B and place them face down, lin­ing up the di­ag­o­nal edge where they will join. With a knot­ted thread, pick up a few threads of fab­ric from each seam al­lowance and sew a cou­ple of flat whip stitches to se­cure. Knot off the thread and snip. This cre­ates a bast­ing stitch to keep the shapes together at the top point.

9

Be­gin stitch­ing the pieces together from the bot­tom point. Keep the pieces flat, con­tin­u­ing to sew flat whip stitches along the seam, catch­ing only a few threads from each seam al­lowance. Knot off the thread when you reach the bast­ing stitch from the pre­vi­ous step.

10

Con­tinue join­ing the pieces, us­ing one set of print fab­ric pieces for each block. Join the pieces in smaller seg­ments (Fig 1), then join the larger sec­tions to com­plete each block (Fig 2). Make twenty blocks.

MAK­ING THE HOR­I­ZON­TAL SASHING ROWS

11

To piece the hor­i­zon­tal and ver­ti­cal sashing units, you will use the twelve prints from step 1.

12

Place a print tri­an­gle one end of a back­ground 10½in x 2½in strip. Sew in place us­ing a ¼in seam al­lowance. Trim to a 10½in x 2½in strip (Fig 3). Re­peat to make a sec­ond match­ing strip.

13

Add tri­an­gles to the ends of two more back­ground 10½in x 2½in strips, this time us­ing a dif­fer­ent print. Sew one of each of th­ese tri­an­gles to the other end of the strips from step 11, and sew together in one row with the match­ing print 2½in squares (Fig 4). This com­pletes one hor­i­zon­tal sashing row.

14

Re­peat the process from steps 11–13 to make a to­tal of four hor­i­zon­tal sashing rows, us­ing dif­fer­ent print fab­rics in each row.

MAK­ING THE VER­TI­CAL SASHING UNITS

15

Ar­range your hor­i­zon­tal sashing rows, re­fer­ring to the Lay­out Di­a­gram. Ar­range the re­main­ing back­ground

10½in x 2½in strips as ver­ti­cal sashing units. Match up your re­main­ing print tri­an­gles and pin to the ends of the sashing rows, to achieve the star pat­tern. Sew each tri­an­gle in place as be­fore to com­plete all fif­teen ver­ti­cal sashing units.

JOIN­ING THE ROWS

16

Ar­range the mask blocks in five rows of four, with the ver­ti­cal sashing units in be­tween each block, and the hor­i­zon­tal sashing rows be­tween each row. Be care­ful to keep your prints lined up cor­rectly in the sashing units, so they join together to make neat stars.

17

Join the blocks together in rows, then join the rows together.

MAK­ING THE BOR­DERS

18

Sew your re­main­ing print 3¼in tri­an­gles to the ends of the back­ground 2½in x 4½in strips, as in step

12. You will need three match­ing strips in each of four print fab­rics.

19

Pair each back­ground 3in square with a print 3in square, RST. Draw a di­ag­o­nal line on the re­verse of each back­ground square. Sew along the marked line, trim ¼in from the line and press open. Trim each HST to mea­sure

2½in square.

20

Ar­range two match­ing tri­an­gle print strips, one HST and one 2½in square as shown (Fig 5). Sew the squares together, then sew this to one strip. Sew the re­main­ing strip to the top to form one cor­ner star unit. Re­peat with each print to make four cor­ner star units.

21

Re­fer­ring to the Lay­out Di­a­gram, po­si­tion your cor­ner star units in the cor­ners of your quilt top. Ar­range the re­main­ing print tri­an­gle strip from step

16, match­ing the prints to those in the cor­ner star units.

22

To form the top bor­der, join a back­ground 22½in x 4½in strip with a back­ground 20½in x 4½in strip. Join the print tri­an­gle strip from the top left to the left end and the top right cor­ner star unit to the right to com­plete the top bor­der.

23

Re­peat step 20 to form the bot­tom bor­der, us­ing the bot­tom left cor­ner star unit and the bot­tom right print tri­an­gle strip.

24

To form the side bor­ders, join each back­ground 22½in x 4½in strip with a back­ground 32½in x 4½in strip. Join the re­main­ing cor­ner star units and print tri­an­gle strips to each one.

FIN­ISH­ING THE QUILT TOP

25

Ar­range the top bor­der at the top of your quilt, align­ing the left edge. Start­ing from this edge, sew the bor­der in place (Fig 6). Stop stitch­ing ¼in from the end of the quilt cen­tre. You will have ap­prox. 4¾in of bor­der un­sewn. Back­stitch at the end of your seam to se­cure. Press the seam away from the quilt cen­tre.

26

Fold­ing the top bor­der out of the way, Join the right side bor­der, mak­ing sure to align the top edge of the bor­der with the top edge of the quilt cen­tre. Sew in place, again end­ing your seam ¼in from the quilt cen­tre at the bot­tom.

27

Fold the quilt to align the top and side bor­ders, and sew the re­main­der of the seam. Make sure to back­stitch at the end of the seam to se­cure. Press seams away from the quilt cen­tre. 28

Re­peat steps 25–27 to at­tach the bot­tom, and then the left side bor­der to com­plete the quilt top.

QUILT­ING AND FIN­ISH­ING

29

Cut the back­ing fab­ric in half across the width. Re­move the selvedges and sew the two pieces together us­ing a ½in seam. Press the seam open.

30

Press the quilt top and back­ing well. Make a quilt sand­wich by plac­ing the back­ing fab­ric right side down, the bat­ting on top, then place the quilt top cen­trally and right side up. Baste the lay­ers together us­ing your pre­ferred method.

31

Quilt as de­sired. Tina quilted sim­ple straight lines in a grid across the quilt in dark grey and mus­tard thread. Trim off the ex­cess bat­ting and back­ing fab­ric and square up the quilt.

32

Sew the bind­ing strips together end-to-end us­ing di­ag­o­nal seams. Press the seams open. Fold in half length­ways, WST, and press.

33

Sew the bind­ing to the right side of the quilt, cre­at­ing a mitre at each cor­ner. Fold the bind­ing over to the back of the quilt and stitch in place to fin­ish.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.