DARK KNIGHT

Jump on the timeless trend and inject some superpowers into your home with this caped crusader-inspired EPP masterpiece

Jump on the trend and inject superpowers into your home with this caped crusader-inspired masterpiece

NOTES

■ All seam allowances are ¼in, unless otherwise noted.

■ HST = Half-square Triangle.

■ RST = right sides together.

■ WOF = width of fabric.

■ WST = wrong sides together.

■ EPP = English Paper Piecing

■ EPP templates do not include seam allowance.

■ For templates see page 89.

■ Press fabrics well before cutting.

FABRICS USED

■ Print fabrics for the masks and stars are from Tina’s stash.

■ Background fabric is a Kona Cotton Solid in White by Robert Kaufman.

CUTTING OUT

1

From each of twelve (12) prints cut:

■ One (1) 2½in square.

■ Two (2) 3¼in squares. Cut each square diagonally in half to create four (4) triangles.

Save the remaining fabric for basting the EPP pieces.

2

From each of four (4) prints (different from step 1) cut:

■ One (1) 2½in square.

■ One (1) 3in square.

■ Two (2) 3¼in squares. Cut each square diagonally in half to create four (4) triangles (you will only use three).

3

From the background fabric cut:

■ Twelve (12) 2½in x 4½in pieces.

■ Four (4) 3in squares.

■ Four (4) 22½in x 4½in pieces.

■ Two (2) 20½in x 4½in pieces.

■ Two (2) 33½in x 4½in pieces.

■ Thirty one (31) 10½in x 2½in pieces. Save the remaining fabric for basting the EPP pieces.

4

From the binding fabric cut:

■ Seven (7) 2½in x WOF strips.

PREPARING THE EPP

5

To baste the EPP shapes, secure a template to the wrong side of the fabric with a dot of glue or a pin. Cut out, leaving a ¼in seam allowance all around the edges.

6

Baste the fabric around each template, gluing down the sides one at a time with a fabric glue pen. Baste all twenty copies of Templates 1B–11B using background fabric.

VISIT GOTHAM CITY WITH A STRIKING REPEAT PATTERN IN THIS BLOCKBUSTER OF A QUILT

7

Choose one of your print fabrics. Baste one copy each of Templates 1A–9A. Repeat with each print fabric, so you have twenty sets of the templates, one set in each print fabric.

PIECING THE MASK BLOCKS

8

Take a basted Template 1A and 1B and place them face down, lining up the diagonal edge where they will join. With a knotted thread, pick up a few threads of fabric from each seam allowance and sew a couple of flat whip stitches to secure. Knot off the thread and snip. This creates a basting stitch to keep the shapes together at the top point.

9

Begin stitching the pieces together from the bottom point. Keep the pieces flat, continuing to sew flat whip stitches along the seam, catching only a few threads from each seam allowance. Knot off the thread when you reach the basting stitch from the previous step.

10

Continue joining the pieces, using one set of print fabric pieces for each block. Join the pieces in smaller segments (Fig 1), then join the larger sections to complete each block (Fig 2). Make twenty blocks.

MAKING THE HORIZONTAL SASHING ROWS

11

To piece the horizontal and vertical sashing units, you will use the twelve prints from step 1.

12

Place a print triangle one end of a background 10½in x 2½in strip. Sew in place using a ¼in seam allowance. Trim to a 10½in x 2½in strip (Fig 3). Repeat to make a second matching strip.

13

Add triangles to the ends of two more background 10½in x 2½in strips, this time using a different print. Sew one of each of these triangles to the other end of the strips from step 11, and sew together in one row with the matching print 2½in squares (Fig 4). This completes one horizontal sashing row.

14

Repeat the process from steps 11–13 to make a total of four horizontal sashing rows, using different print fabrics in each row.

MAKING THE VERTICAL SASHING UNITS

15

Arrange your horizontal sashing rows, referring to the Layout Diagram. Arrange the remaining background

10½in x 2½in strips as vertical sashing units. Match up your remaining print triangles and pin to the ends of the sashing rows, to achieve the star pattern. Sew each triangle in place as before to complete all fifteen vertical sashing units.

JOINING THE ROWS

16

Arrange the mask blocks in five rows of four, with the vertical sashing units in between each block, and the horizontal sashing rows between each row. Be careful to keep your prints lined up correctly in the sashing units, so they join together to make neat stars.

17

Join the blocks together in rows, then join the rows together.

MAKING THE BORDERS

18

Sew your remaining print 3¼in triangles to the ends of the background 2½in x 4½in strips, as in step

12. You will need three matching strips in each of four print fabrics.

19

Pair each background 3in square with a print 3in square, RST. Draw a diagonal line on the reverse of each background square. Sew along the marked line, trim ¼in from the line and press open. Trim each HST to measure

2½in square.

20

Arrange two matching triangle print strips, one HST and one 2½in square as shown (Fig 5). Sew the squares together, then sew this to one strip. Sew the remaining strip to the top to form one corner star unit. Repeat with each print to make four corner star units.

21

Referring to the Layout Diagram, position your corner star units in the corners of your quilt top. Arrange the remaining print triangle strip from step

16, matching the prints to those in the corner star units.

22

To form the top border, join a background 22½in x 4½in strip with a background 20½in x 4½in strip. Join the print triangle strip from the top left to the left end and the top right corner star unit to the right to complete the top border.

23

Repeat step 20 to form the bottom border, using the bottom left corner star unit and the bottom right print triangle strip.

24

To form the side borders, join each background 22½in x 4½in strip with a background 32½in x 4½in strip. Join the remaining corner star units and print triangle strips to each one.

FINISHING THE QUILT TOP

25

Arrange the top border at the top of your quilt, aligning the left edge. Starting from this edge, sew the border in place (Fig 6). Stop stitching ¼in from the end of the quilt centre. You will have approx. 4¾in of border unsewn. Backstitch at the end of your seam to secure. Press the seam away from the quilt centre.

26

Folding the top border out of the way, Join the right side border, making sure to align the top edge of the border with the top edge of the quilt centre. Sew in place, again ending your seam ¼in from the quilt centre at the bottom.

27

Fold the quilt to align the top and side borders, and sew the remainder of the seam. Make sure to backstitch at the end of the seam to secure. Press seams away from the quilt centre. 28

Repeat steps 25–27 to attach the bottom, and then the left side border to complete the quilt top.

QUILTING AND FINISHING

29

Cut the backing fabric in half across the width. Remove the selvedges and sew the two pieces together using a ½in seam. Press the seam open.

30

Press the quilt top and backing well. Make a quilt sandwich by placing the backing fabric right side down, the batting on top, then place the quilt top centrally and right side up. Baste the layers together using your preferred method.

31

Quilt as desired. Tina quilted simple straight lines in a grid across the quilt in dark grey and mustard thread. Trim off the excess batting and backing fabric and square up the quilt.

32

Sew the binding strips together end-to-end using diagonal seams. Press the seams open. Fold in half lengthways, WST, and press.

33

Sew the binding to the right side of the quilt, creating a mitre at each corner. Fold the binding over to the back of the quilt and stitch in place to finish.