# WORK WITH A LOG CABINSTYLE TECHNIQUE TO ACHIEVE THE DIAGONAL PATTERNS

CUTTING OUT

1

From Fabric A cut:

Q Three (3) 3½in x WOF strips. Subcut into two (2) 15½in x 3½in pieces, four (4) 11in x 3½in pieces and two (2) 9½in x 3½in pieces.

2

From Fabric B cut:

Q One (1) 3½in x 22in strip. Subcut into four (4) 3½in squares.

3

From Fabric C cut:

Q One (1) 6in x WOF strip. Subcut into two (2) 6in squares, two (2) 4½in squares, four (4) 4½in x 1½in pieces, four (4) 2½in x 1½in pieces and four (4) 2½in squares. 4

From Fabric D cut:

Q Two (2) 2½in squares.

5

From Fabric E cut:

Q One (1) 2½in x WOF strip. Subcut into twenty (20) 2½in x 1½in pieces and four (4) 2½in squares.

Q One (1) 1½in x WOF strip. Subcut into four (4) 1½in x 4½in pieces.

6

From Fabric F cut:

Q Thirteen (13) 2in x WOF strips. Subcut into forty (40) 2in x 6½in pieces ( Z) and forty four (44) 2in x 5in pieces ( Y).

7

From the background fabric cut:

Q Four (4) 21¾in x WOF pieces. Subcut into four (4) 21¾in x 32½in rectangles

(A), twenty eight (28) 2in x 6½in pieces ( Z), one (1) 7¾in square and two (2) 7in squares. Subcut the 7¾in square from corner to corner to make two (2) triangles (C). Subcut the 7in squares from corner to corner to make four (4) triangles (G2).

Q One (1) 18¼in x WOF strip. Subcut into one (1) 18¼in square. Subcut the square from corner to corner to make two (2) triangles (B). Subcut the remaining into thirty two (32) 2in x 5in pieces ( Y).

Q One (1) 10¼in x WOF strip. Subcut into four (4) 10¼in squares. Subcut the squares from corner to corner to make eight (8) triangles (L).

Q One (1) 9½in x WOF strip. Subcut into one (1) 9½in square, two (2) 6in squares, two (2) 5½in squares and one (1) 5¼in square. Subcut the 9½in square from corner to corner to make two (2) triangles (D1). Subcut the 5½in squares from corner to corner on both diagonals to make eight (8) triangles (D3). Subcut the 5¼in square from corner to corner to make two (2) triangles (D2).

Q One (1) 5¼in x WOF strip. Subcut into eight (8) 5¼in squares. Subcut the squares from corner to corner to make sixteen (16) triangles (M).

Q One (1) 4¼in x WOF strip. Subcut into two (2) 4¼in squares, four (4) 4in squares and two (2) 3½in squares. Subcut the 4¼in squares from corner to corner on both diagonals to make eight (8) triangles (E2). Subcut the 4in squares from corner to corner to make eight (8) triangles (E1). Subcut the 3½in squares from corner to corner on both diagonals to make eight (8) triangles (K).

Q Four (4) 3½in x WOF strips. Subcut into forty five (45) 3½in squares. Subcut thirty three (33) of the squares from corner to corner on both diagonals to make a total of one hundred and thirty two (132) triangles ( X). Q One (1) 2¾in x WOF strip. Subcut into eight (8) 2¾in squares. Subcut 2¾in squares from corner to corner on both diagonals to make thirty two (32) triangles (F2).

Q One (1) 2in x WOF strip. Subcut into

twelve (12) 2in x 3½in pieces ( W).

8

From the binding fabric cut: Q Nine (9) 2½in x WOF strips.

PIECING BLOCK D

9

Draw a line from corner to corner on the reverse of twelve background 3½in squares. Place one on either side of a blue 3½in x 9½in rectangle. Sew along the drawn line and trim a ¼in seam allowance to make a Corner Square Triangle (CST) (Fig 1). Press. Repeat to make two units with the blue 3½in x 9½in rectangles and two units with the blue 3½in x 15½in rectangles.

10

Add a background fabric CST to the left side of a blue 3½in x 11in rectangle. Add a red 3½in square CST to the right side. Make two of these units, and two mirror image units as shown (Fig 2).

11

Sew the four units from step 10 together in pairs, matching up the red CSTs in the centre. Sew the pairs together so they make a red centre square. Join a Z piece to either end, then join the D2 triangles, making sure they're centred.

12

Join a W piece to either end of the units from step 9. Then join the D3 triangles, ensuring they're facing the

same direction (Fig 3). Sew the five rows together, then complete the block by joining two D1 triangles at the top and the bottom. Trim to 21¾in square.

PIECING BLOCK E

13

Draw two lines from corner to corner on the reverse of a background 6in square. Place RST with a Fabric C 6in square and sew ¼in either side of the drawn lines. Cut along the drawn lines, as well as through the centre horizontally and vertically (Fig 4). Open, press and trim the HST units to 2½in square.

14

Sew the HSTs into pairs, matching up the background triangles. Arrange into a block, combining with a Fabric C 4½in square, four E2 triangles and four E1 triangles (Fig 5). Trim to 9in square. Repeat steps 13–14 to make two Block E.

PIECING BLOCK F

15

Referring to Fig 6 for placement, sew C, D and E 2½in squares into a row, adding K triangles to the ends to form the centre of the block. Arrange the remaining rows, joining 1½in x 2½in Fabric E strips to either side of the Fabric C strips and F2 triangles at each end. Also sew F2 triangle to the ends of the Fabric E 1½in x 4½in and 1½in x 2½in strips. Join these strips in rows, then join K triangles to the top and bottom. Trim to 9in square. Make two Block F.

CHEVRON BLOCKS PREPARATION

16

Join X triangles to the ends of the navy Y and Z strips and the background Y and Z pieces, as shown in Fig 7, being careful to orient as shown. Make the total number of each strip as indicated above.

PIECING BLOCKS G, H & J

17

Sew a navy Y/X unit to the top of an L triangle, aligning the left edge. Press seams. Join a navy Z/X unit to the left side, aligning the top edge, then add a background Y/X unit to the top edge, aligning the left edge. Continue adding the strips, alternating navy and background until seven rows have been added. Join a G2 triangle to the left side (Fig 8). This completes one Block G. Repeat to make a second Block G.

18

Repeat step 17, adding the G2 triangle to the top, instead of left side, to make two Block H. Trim all Block G and H to be 9in wide. Trim the diagonal edge of the block so the short edge measures 17½in and the long edge measures 26in as shown (Fig 9).

19

Repeat step 17, without adding the G2 triangles. Sew a background M triangle to each end of the navy strips to square up the end (Fig 10). Trim to 9in x 21¾in to complete one Block J. Repeat to make a total of four Block J.

PIECING BLOCKS K & M

20

Join X triangles to the ends of Y and Z strips as shown (Fig 11). Sew a Y and Z unit together along the long edges, aligning the straight edges at the bottom. Join a W strip at the bottom. Join a Y unit to one side and a navy Y strip to the bottom. Continue joining the strips as shown, alternating navy and background. Then add two W triangles to the ends as

shown (Fig 12). This completes one Block K. Repeat to make a second Block K.

21

Make Block M in the same way, arranging the strips as shown (Fig 13). Make two Block M.

22

Trim the M and K blocks to 9in wide. Trim the side edges so they measure 7in along the short edges and 15¾in along the long edges as shown (Fig 14).

ASSEMBLING THE QUILT

23

Arrange and then sew the blocks in rows as shown (Fig 15). Sew the rows together, matching seams to achieve a neat pattern. Square up the corners and trim the excess (Fig 16).

QUILTING AND FINISHING

24

Cut the backing fabric in half across the width and sew the two pieces together using a ½in seam. Press open. Press the quilt top and backing well. Make a quilt sandwich by placing the backing fabric right side down, the batting on top, then the quilt top centrally and right side up. Baste the layers together using your preferred method.

25

Quilt as desired. Brooke quilted straight lines, roughly ½in apart. Trim off the excess batting and backing fabric and square up the quilt.

26

Sew the binding strips together end-to-end using diagonal seams. Press the seams open. Fold in half lengthways, WST, and press. Sew the binding to the right side of the quilt, creating a neat mitre at each corner. Fold the binding over to the back and hand stitch in place to finish.