WORK WITH A LOG CABINSTYLE TECH­NIQUE TO ACHIEVE THE DI­AG­O­NAL PAT­TERNS

Love Patchwork & Quilting - - WANDERLUST -

CUT­TING OUT

1

From Fab­ric A cut:

Q Three (3) 3½in x WOF strips. Sub­cut into two (2) 15½in x 3½in pieces, four (4) 11in x 3½in pieces and two (2) 9½in x 3½in pieces.

2

From Fab­ric B cut:

Q One (1) 3½in x 22in strip. Sub­cut into four (4) 3½in squares.

3

From Fab­ric C cut:

Q One (1) 6in x WOF strip. Sub­cut into two (2) 6in squares, two (2) 4½in squares, four (4) 4½in x 1½in pieces, four (4) 2½in x 1½in pieces and four (4) 2½in squares. 4

From Fab­ric D cut:

Q Two (2) 2½in squares.

5

From Fab­ric E cut:

Q One (1) 2½in x WOF strip. Sub­cut into twenty (20) 2½in x 1½in pieces and four (4) 2½in squares.

Q One (1) 1½in x WOF strip. Sub­cut into four (4) 1½in x 4½in pieces.

6

From Fab­ric F cut:

Q Thir­teen (13) 2in x WOF strips. Sub­cut into forty (40) 2in x 6½in pieces ( Z) and forty four (44) 2in x 5in pieces ( Y).

7

From the back­ground fab­ric cut:

Q Four (4) 21¾in x WOF pieces. Sub­cut into four (4) 21¾in x 32½in rec­tan­gles

(A), twenty eight (28) 2in x 6½in pieces ( Z), one (1) 7¾in square and two (2) 7in squares. Sub­cut the 7¾in square from cor­ner to cor­ner to make two (2) tri­an­gles (C). Sub­cut the 7in squares from cor­ner to cor­ner to make four (4) tri­an­gles (G2).

Q One (1) 18¼in x WOF strip. Sub­cut into one (1) 18¼in square. Sub­cut the square from cor­ner to cor­ner to make two (2) tri­an­gles (B). Sub­cut the re­main­ing into thirty two (32) 2in x 5in pieces ( Y).

Q One (1) 10¼in x WOF strip. Sub­cut into four (4) 10¼in squares. Sub­cut the squares from cor­ner to cor­ner to make eight (8) tri­an­gles (L).

Q One (1) 9½in x WOF strip. Sub­cut into one (1) 9½in square, two (2) 6in squares, two (2) 5½in squares and one (1) 5¼in square. Sub­cut the 9½in square from cor­ner to cor­ner to make two (2) tri­an­gles (D1). Sub­cut the 5½in squares from cor­ner to cor­ner on both di­ag­o­nals to make eight (8) tri­an­gles (D3). Sub­cut the 5¼in square from cor­ner to cor­ner to make two (2) tri­an­gles (D2).

Q One (1) 5¼in x WOF strip. Sub­cut into eight (8) 5¼in squares. Sub­cut the squares from cor­ner to cor­ner to make six­teen (16) tri­an­gles (M).

Q One (1) 4¼in x WOF strip. Sub­cut into two (2) 4¼in squares, four (4) 4in squares and two (2) 3½in squares. Sub­cut the 4¼in squares from cor­ner to cor­ner on both di­ag­o­nals to make eight (8) tri­an­gles (E2). Sub­cut the 4in squares from cor­ner to cor­ner to make eight (8) tri­an­gles (E1). Sub­cut the 3½in squares from cor­ner to cor­ner on both di­ag­o­nals to make eight (8) tri­an­gles (K).

Q Four (4) 3½in x WOF strips. Sub­cut into forty five (45) 3½in squares. Sub­cut thirty three (33) of the squares from cor­ner to cor­ner on both di­ag­o­nals to make a to­tal of one hun­dred and thirty two (132) tri­an­gles ( X). Q One (1) 2¾in x WOF strip. Sub­cut into eight (8) 2¾in squares. Sub­cut 2¾in squares from cor­ner to cor­ner on both di­ag­o­nals to make thirty two (32) tri­an­gles (F2).

Q One (1) 2in x WOF strip. Sub­cut into

twelve (12) 2in x 3½in pieces ( W).

8

From the bind­ing fab­ric cut: Q Nine (9) 2½in x WOF strips.

PIEC­ING BLOCK D

9

Draw a line from cor­ner to cor­ner on the re­verse of twelve back­ground 3½in squares. Place one on ei­ther side of a blue 3½in x 9½in rec­tan­gle. Sew along the drawn line and trim a ¼in seam al­lowance to make a Cor­ner Square Tri­an­gle (CST) (Fig 1). Press. Re­peat to make two units with the blue 3½in x 9½in rec­tan­gles and two units with the blue 3½in x 15½in rec­tan­gles.

10

Add a back­ground fab­ric CST to the left side of a blue 3½in x 11in rec­tan­gle. Add a red 3½in square CST to the right side. Make two of these units, and two mir­ror im­age units as shown (Fig 2).

11

Sew the four units from step 10 to­gether in pairs, match­ing up the red CSTs in the cen­tre. Sew the pairs to­gether so they make a red cen­tre square. Join a Z piece to ei­ther end, then join the D2 tri­an­gles, mak­ing sure they're cen­tred.

12

Join a W piece to ei­ther end of the units from step 9. Then join the D3 tri­an­gles, en­sur­ing they're fac­ing the

same di­rec­tion (Fig 3). Sew the five rows to­gether, then com­plete the block by join­ing two D1 tri­an­gles at the top and the bot­tom. Trim to 21¾in square.

PIEC­ING BLOCK E

13

Draw two lines from cor­ner to cor­ner on the re­verse of a back­ground 6in square. Place RST with a Fab­ric C 6in square and sew ¼in ei­ther side of the drawn lines. Cut along the drawn lines, as well as through the cen­tre hor­i­zon­tally and ver­ti­cally (Fig 4). Open, press and trim the HST units to 2½in square.

14

Sew the HSTs into pairs, match­ing up the back­ground tri­an­gles. Ar­range into a block, com­bin­ing with a Fab­ric C 4½in square, four E2 tri­an­gles and four E1 tri­an­gles (Fig 5). Trim to 9in square. Re­peat steps 13–14 to make two Block E.

PIEC­ING BLOCK F

15

Re­fer­ring to Fig 6 for place­ment, sew C, D and E 2½in squares into a row, adding K tri­an­gles to the ends to form the cen­tre of the block. Ar­range the re­main­ing rows, join­ing 1½in x 2½in Fab­ric E strips to ei­ther side of the Fab­ric C strips and F2 tri­an­gles at each end. Also sew F2 tri­an­gle to the ends of the Fab­ric E 1½in x 4½in and 1½in x 2½in strips. Join these strips in rows, then join K tri­an­gles to the top and bot­tom. Trim to 9in square. Make two Block F.

CHEVRON BLOCKS PREPA­RA­TION

16

Join X tri­an­gles to the ends of the navy Y and Z strips and the back­ground Y and Z pieces, as shown in Fig 7, be­ing care­ful to ori­ent as shown. Make the to­tal num­ber of each strip as in­di­cated above.

PIEC­ING BLOCKS G, H & J

17

Sew a navy Y/X unit to the top of an L tri­an­gle, align­ing the left edge. Press seams. Join a navy Z/X unit to the left side, align­ing the top edge, then add a back­ground Y/X unit to the top edge, align­ing the left edge. Con­tinue adding the strips, al­ter­nat­ing navy and back­ground un­til seven rows have been added. Join a G2 tri­an­gle to the left side (Fig 8). This com­pletes one Block G. Re­peat to make a sec­ond Block G.

18

Re­peat step 17, adding the G2 tri­an­gle to the top, in­stead of left side, to make two Block H. Trim all Block G and H to be 9in wide. Trim the di­ag­o­nal edge of the block so the short edge mea­sures 17½in and the long edge mea­sures 26in as shown (Fig 9).

19

Re­peat step 17, with­out adding the G2 tri­an­gles. Sew a back­ground M tri­an­gle to each end of the navy strips to square up the end (Fig 10). Trim to 9in x 21¾in to com­plete one Block J. Re­peat to make a to­tal of four Block J.

PIEC­ING BLOCKS K & M

20

Join X tri­an­gles to the ends of Y and Z strips as shown (Fig 11). Sew a Y and Z unit to­gether along the long edges, align­ing the straight edges at the bot­tom. Join a W strip at the bot­tom. Join a Y unit to one side and a navy Y strip to the bot­tom. Con­tinue join­ing the strips as shown, al­ter­nat­ing navy and back­ground. Then add two W tri­an­gles to the ends as

shown (Fig 12). This com­pletes one Block K. Re­peat to make a sec­ond Block K.

21

Make Block M in the same way, ar­rang­ing the strips as shown (Fig 13). Make two Block M.

22

Trim the M and K blocks to 9in wide. Trim the side edges so they mea­sure 7in along the short edges and 15¾in along the long edges as shown (Fig 14).

AS­SEM­BLING THE QUILT

23

Ar­range and then sew the blocks in rows as shown (Fig 15). Sew the rows to­gether, match­ing seams to achieve a neat pat­tern. Square up the cor­ners and trim the ex­cess (Fig 16).

QUILT­ING AND FIN­ISH­ING

24

Cut the back­ing fab­ric in half across the width and sew the two pieces to­gether us­ing a ½in seam. Press open. Press the quilt top and back­ing well. Make a quilt sand­wich by plac­ing the back­ing fab­ric right side down, the bat­ting on top, then the quilt top cen­trally and right side up. Baste the lay­ers to­gether us­ing your pre­ferred method.

25

Quilt as de­sired. Brooke quilted straight lines, roughly ½in apart. Trim off the ex­cess bat­ting and back­ing fab­ric and square up the quilt.

26

Sew the bind­ing strips to­gether end-to-end us­ing di­ag­o­nal seams. Press the seams open. Fold in half length­ways, WST, and press. Sew the bind­ing to the right side of the quilt, cre­at­ing a neat mitre at each cor­ner. Fold the bind­ing over to the back and hand stitch in place to fin­ish.

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