SNUG­GLE BUNNY

Sew the sweet­est quilt for a new baby, com­plete with soft, floppy ears and a strik­ing patch­work panel

Love Patchwork & Quilting - - SNUGGLE BUNNY - BY KATE WEB­BER

YOU WILL NEED

■ Fab­ric A (white) 1¼yds

■ Fab­ric B (Grey) / yd

■ Fab­ric C (Green) / yd

■ Fab­ric D (Yel­low) ¼yd

■ Fab­ric E (Orange) / yd

■ Fab­ric F (Pink) one (1) fat quar­ter

■ Fab­ric G (Black) one (1) 10in square

■ Back­ing fab­ric: 1¾yd

■ Bat­ting: 40in x 60in

■ One (1) copy each of the Nose, Eye, Right Ear and Left Ear templates

FIN­ISHED SIZE ■ 32in x 44in (ex­clud­ing ears)

NOTES

■ Seam al­lowances are ¼in, un­less oth­er­wise noted.

■ Templates in­clude seam al­lowances, where nec­es­sary.

■ RST = right sides to­gether.

■ WOF = width of fab­ric.

■ HST = Half-square Tri­an­gle.

■ FPP = Foun­da­tion Paper Piecing

■ For templates see p87.

FAB­RICS USED

All fab­rics are Kona Cot­ton Solids in White, Steel, Candy Green, But­ter­cup, Mango, Candy Pink and Char­coal from Robert Kauf­man.

CUT­TING OUT

1

From Fab­ric A cut:

■ One (1) 14½in x 32½in strip.

■ Eight (8) 2½in x 4½in strips. Save the re­main­der for the ears.

2

From Fab­ric B cut:

■ Four (4) 5in squares.

■ One (1) 4½in x WOF strip. Sub­cut into nine (9) 2½in x 4½in strips.

■ Two (2) 1in x 30in strips.

■ One (1) 4in x WOF strip. Sub­cut into nine

(9) 4in squares, and cut each one in half on the di­ag­o­nal to make eigh­teen (18) HSTs.

■ One (1) 3in x 10in strip. Sub­cut into eight

(8) 3in x 1¼in pieces.

3

From Fab­ric C cut:

■ Two (2) 2½in x 32½in strips.

■ Two (2) 3¼in x WOF strips. Sub­cut into six­teen (16) 3¼in squares. Sub­cut each one in half on the di­ag­o­nal to make thirty two (32) HSTs.

■ Two (2) 1¾in x 30in strips.

■ Eight (8) 3¼in squares.

4

From Fab­ric D cut:

■ Three (3) 2½in x 32½in strips.

5

From Fab­ric E cut:

■ Four (4) 5in squares.

■ One (1) 1¼in x WOF strip. Sub­cut into seven (7) 1¼in x 1¾in pieces and two (2) 1¼in x 2¼in pieces.

■ Two (2) 2¼in x 32¾in strips.

6

From Fab­ric F cut:

■ Two (2) 16½in x 8½in pieces for the ears.

■ Two (2) 2½in squares for the nose.

7

From Fab­ric G cut:

■ Four (4) 3in x 3½in pieces for the eyes.

PIECING THE DI­A­MOND ROW

8

Take one Fab­ric C 3¼in square and two Fab­ric B HSTs. Join the HSTs to op­po­site sides of the square to make a di­ag­o­nal strip, re­fer­ring to Fig 1 for place­ment. Press seams to­ward the HST units and trim the dog ears.

THE FEA­TURE PANEL ON THIS CUTE QUILT IS IDEAL FOR PER­FECT­ING YOUR PIECING SKILLS

9

Re­peat step 8 to make eight units. Join into a row, care­fully nest­ing the seams (Fig 2). Join the re­main­ing two Fab­ric B HSTs to the ends of the strip (Fig 3), then trim to 32½in x 4½in, cen­tring the strip.

PIECING THE DASH ROW

10

Sew to­gether eight Fab­ric B 3in x 1¼in pieces and seven Fab­ric E

1¼in x 1¾in pieces along the short edges, al­ter­nat­ing the Fab­ric B and E pieces. Then sew one Fab­ric E 1¼in x 2¼in piece to each end (Fig 4).

11

Sew a Fab­ric E 2¼in x 32¾in strip to the top and bot­tom of the pieced strip from step 10. Trim the row to 32½in x 4½in, care­fully cen­tring the strip.

PIECING THE STRIPED ROW

12

Piece the eight Fab­ric A 2½in x 4½in strips and nine Fab­ric B 2½in x 4½in strips into a row, join­ing along the long edges and al­ter­nat­ing the fab­rics. Press seams to­wards Fab­ric B and trim to 32½in x 4½in, en­sur­ing you trim evenly on ei­ther side.

PIECING THE CROSS ROW

13

Sew the Fab­ric C 1¾in x 30in strips to ei­ther side of a Fab­ric B 1in x 30in strip, along the long edge. Press seams to­wards Fab­ric B. Sub­cut the strip into six­teen 1¾in x 3½in pieces (Fig 5).

14

Sew eight of the sub­cut units along one side of the re­main­ing Fab­ric B strip. Press seams to­wards the Fab­ric B strip (Fig 6). Join the re­main­ing eight sub­cut units to the other side of the strip (Fig 7). En­sure the cross in the cen­tre is lined up. Trim each cross unit to 3¼in square, care­fully cen­tring the crosses.

15

Add a Fab­ric C HST to op­po­site sides of each cross unit. Trim the ex­cess and add two more HSTs to the re­main­ing sides to make a square (Fig 8). Trim each cross unit to 4½in square, then join to make a 32½in x 4½in strip, press­ing seams open.

PIECING THE HST ROW

16

Take the four Fab­ric E and four Fab­ric B 5in squares. Mark a di­ag­o­nal line on the re­verse of the Fab­ric E squares, from cor­ner to cor­ner. Place the squares to­gether, RST, and sew ¼in from ei­ther side of the marked line. Trim down the line and press seams to­wards Fab­ric B.

17

Re­peat step 16 to make eight HST units. Trim each to 4½in square and join to­gether to make a 32½in x 4½in strip.

AS­SEM­BLING THE QUILT TOP

18

Join your pieced rows to­gether along the long edges, in­sert­ing Fab­ric C and D strips in be­tween pieced rows as shown in the Lay­out Di­a­gram on the fol­low­ing page.

19

To shape the head, take the Fab­ric A

14½in x 32½in strip and mark 8in from the ends along the top edge, and 4in down from the top down along each side. Draw a line be­tween these marks and cut along the line (Fig 9). Join the head piece to the top of the pieced quilt.

MAK­ING THE EARS

20

Foun­da­tion Paper Piece each Ear tem­plate, us­ing the Fab­ric F pieces for Sec­tion 1 and the Fab­ric A pieces for Sec­tions 2– 4. Trim along the outer dashed line of each tem­plate, and re­move the paper tem­plate.

21

Us­ing the FPP ears as a guide, cut one piece of bat­ting to the same size and shape for each ear. Also cut two pieces of back­ing fab­ric in the same way. Be sure to cut one each of each ear, so you have two mir­ror im­age pieces of both bat­ting and back­ing fab­ric.

22

Lay one pieced ear front on top of the bat­ting piece, right side up, and lay the back­ing fab­ric on top, right side down. Stitch around the edges with a ¼in seam, leav­ing the bot­tom edge un­stitched. Trim the cor­ners and turn the ear right side out. Re­peat with the sec­ond ear.

23

Top­stitch around the edges of the ear, leav­ing the bot­tom edge un­stitched. Quilt around the in­ner ear.

MAK­ING THE EYES AND NOSE

24

Place two Fab­ric F 2½in squares RST. Lay the Nose tem­plate on top and draw around the edges. Stitch along the drawn line and trim 1/8in out­side the stitched cir­cle. Make a small cut in the cen­tre of one layer, and care­fully turn right side out. Press.

25

Re­peat step 24 with the Eye tem­plate and Fab­ric G pieces to make two eyes.

QUILT­ING AND FIN­ISH­ING

26

Lay the quilt top on top of the back­ing fab­ric and trim the back­ing fab­ric to size. Put the back­ing to one side.

27

Re­peat step 26 with the bat­ting, but keep the quilt top in place. Po­si­tion the ears right side down against the quilt top, align­ing the raw edges with the an­gled edges at the top. Baste the ears to the top of the quilt top, through both the fab­ric and the bat­ting.

28

Place the back­ing fab­ric over the quilt top, right side down, and stitch around all sides with a ¼in seam al­lowance, leav­ing a turn­ing gap at the bot­tom edge. Trim the cor­ners and turn the quilt right side out.

29

Slip stitch the turn­ing gap closed and top stitch around the edge. Quilt as de­sired, care­fully bury­ing your thread ends. Kate stitched in the ditch with sim­ple hor­i­zon­tal lines. Po­si­tion the eyes and nose in place and stitch in place to fin­ish.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.