MARINER & MUS­TARD

In­dulge in two of your favourite hues and show them off in this easy – and eye-catch­ing – Court­house Steps de­sign

Love Patchwork & Quilting - - MARINER & MUSTARD - BY KAREN LEWIS

YOU WILL NEED

■ Fab­ric A (navy) 1yd

■ Fab­ric B (navy stripe) ½yd

■ Fab­ric C (blue) / yd

■ Fab­ric D (blue stripe) / yd

■ Fab­ric E (yel­low) 1¼yds

■ Fab­ric F (yel­low stripe) ½yd

■ Back­ing fab­ric: 4yds

■ Bat­ting: 70in square

■ Bind­ing fab­ric: ½yd

FIN­ISHED SIZE

■ 60in square

NOTES

■ Seam al­lowances are ¼in, un­less oth­er­wise noted.

■ Press seams open, un­less oth­er­wise in­structed.

■ WOF = width of fab­ric.

■ LOF = length of fab­ric.

■ WST = wrong sides to­gether.

■ Press all fab­rics well be­fore cut­ting.

■ Fab­rics pro­vided by An­dover (an­dover­fab­rics.com)

FAB­RICS USED

Stripes are from the Mariner Cloth col­lec­tion by Ali­son Glass for An­dover Fab­rics in Chef Ware, Chartreuse, Raven, Flu­o­res­cent, Navy and Stafford­shire.

CUT­TING OUT

1 From Fab­ric A cut:

■ Eleven (11) 2½in x WOF strips. Sub­cut into twelve (12) 2½in squares, twenty four (24) 2½in x 6½in strips and twenty four (24) 2½in x 10½in strips.

2 From Fab­ric B cut:

■ Six (6) 2½in x WOF strips. Sub­cut the strips into twenty four (24) 2½in squares and twenty four (24)

2½in x 6½in strips.

3 From Fab­ric C cut:

■ Eight (8) 2½in x WOF strips. Sub­cut into twelve (12) 2½in squares, twenty four (24) 2½in x 6½in strips and twelve (12) 2½in x 10½in strips.

4 From Fab­ric D cut:

■ Four (4) 2½in x WOF strips. Sub­cut the strips into twenty four

(24) 2½in squares and twelve (12)

2½in x 6½in strips.

5 From Fab­ric E cut:

■ Six­teen (16) 2½in x WOF strips. Sub­cut the strips into twelve (12)

2½in squares, thirty six (36)

2½in x 6½in strips and thirty six

(36) 2½in x 10½in strips.

6 From Fab­ric F cut:

■ Six (6) 2½in x WOF strips. Sub­cut the strips into twenty four (24)

2½in squares and twenty four (24)

2½in x 6½in strips.

7 From the bind­ing fab­ric cut:

■ Seven (7) 2½in x WOF strips.

SPEND TIME MAK­ING YOUR SEAMS STRAIGHT AND OR­DERED, OR OPT FOR A WABI-SABI LOOK

PIECING THE COURT­HOUSE STEPS BLOCKS

8 To make the navy block, take one Fab­ric A 2 in square and sew two Fab­ric B 2 in squares to ei­ther side. Sew a Fab­ric A 2 in x 6 in strip ei­ther side to make a square. If you’re work­ing with striped fab­rics, like Karen, be care­ful to ar­range the stripes as shown in the pho­tos to achieve the same ef­fect.

9 Join a Fab­ric B 2 in x 6 in strip to the top and bot­tom of the square unit, then fin­ish the block by sewing two Fab­ric A 2 in x 10 in strips on the re­main­ing sides to com­plete the block (Fig 1). Re­peat to make a to­tal of twelve navy blocks.

10 Re­peat steps 7– 8 to make twelve Fab­ric C/D/E blocks and twelve Fab­ric E/F blocks as shown (Fig 2).

AS­SEM­BLING THE QUILT TOP

11 Lay the blocks out in six rows of six, re­fer­ring to the Lay­out Di­a­gram for place­ment, ro­tat­ing the blocks as shown. Sew the blocks into rows, press­ing seams to op­po­site sides be­tween rows. Sew the rows to­gether, press­ing seams open or to one side to com­plete the quilt top.

FIN­ISH­ING THE QUILT

12 Cut your back­ing fab­ric in half along the width. Sew to­gether along the long edges us­ing a in seam. Press open. Press the quilt top and back­ing well. Make a quilt sand­wich by plac­ing the back­ing fab­ric right side down, the bat­ting on top, then place the quilt top cen­trally and right side up. Baste the lay­ers to­gether us­ing your pre­ferred method.

13 Quilt as de­sired. Karen quilted ver­ti­cal lines ap­prox­i­mately 1 in apart. Trim off the ex­cess bat­ting and back­ing fab­ric and square up the quilt.

14 Sew the bind­ing strips to­gether end-to-end us­ing di­ag­o­nal seams. Press the seams open. Fold in half length­ways, WST, and press.

15 Sew the bind­ing to the right side of the quilt, creat­ing a mitre at each cor­ner. Fold the bind­ing over to the back and hand stitch in place to fin­ish.

Fig 2

Fig 1

Lay­out Di­a­gram

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