ROOM REFRESH

Brighten up your sewing space with a trio of stylish accessories – it’s time for those fabrics you’ve saved for something special!

Brighten your sewing space with a trio of stylish accessories!

UNEVEN SCRAPS CAN BE COMBINED FOR A PLAYFUL EFFECT IN A PROJECT LIKE THIS CREATING THE PATTERN

1

Draw a 15¾in square onto a large piece of paper and divide the square into four segments, referring to the main image for guidance. These can be whatever size you like – Jess started with a smaller triangle in the centre and added larger ones around it.

2

Mark notches where one segment meets another, extending into both pieces to help with matching them up later. Working from the centre outwards, number each segment in order. Cut along the drawn lines to make a total of four pattern pieces.

CUTTING OUT

3

From each print fabric cut:

■ One (1) piece using one of the cushion templates each.

Trim around the templates, adding a !/ in seam allowance all around and transfer any notches onto the pattern pieces.

4

From the backing fabric cut:

■ Two (2) 16½in x 11in pieces.

PIECING THE CUSHION FRONT

5

Pin your labelled piece one and piece two, right sides together. Match the marked notches and then sew along the edge (Fig A). Press the seam open. Pin and sew piece three to the joined pieces one and two, matching notches (Fig B). Press the seam open. Repeat with piece four (Fig C).

MAKING THE CUSHION BACK

6

Fold under one long edge of one of the cushion back pieces by !/ in to the wrong side and press. Fold under again by !/ in and press, then topstitch in place. Repeat to hem the other cushion back piece in the same way.

ASSEMBLING THE CUSHION

7

Place the cushion front right side up then place the two cushion back pieces right side down on top, matching all raw edges around the outside so that the pieces overlap in the centre. Pin around the outer edges (Fig D). Sew around the outside, turn right side out and press. Insert a cushion pad to finish.

CUTTING OUT

1

From the main fabric cut:

■ One (1) 33!/ in x 11 / in main body.

■ Four (4) 19¾in x 11 / in pieces for the pockets.

■ Two (2) 4¾in squares for the tabs.

2

From the fusible batting cut:

■ One (1) 33!/ in x 11 / in piece for the main body.

■ Four (4) 9¾in x 11 / in pieces for the pockets.

MAKING THE POCKETS

3

Fold one pocket piece in half widthways, WST, and press. Open out and arrange one of the batting pocket pieces on the wrong side of one of the fold. Refold the pocket and press to adhere the batting. Baste along the two sides to hold in place. Then use a zigzag stitch along the bottom raw edges. Topstitch along the folded edge, backstitching at each end.

4

Repeat step 3 with the remaining pocket pieces to make four pockets.

ATTACHING THE POCKETS

5

Pin the main body batting to the wrong side of the main body, matching raw edges. Press. Measuring down from the top short edge, make a mark at each side at 16!/ in.

6

Place one pocket piece right side down on top of the main body so the topstitched edge is facing the bottom of the hanging. Align the zigzag edge of the pocket with the 16!/ in marks.

ADD BATTING TO MAKE THIS A STURDY HANGER TO HOLD YOUR FAVOURITE MAGAZINES!

7

Sew the pocket in place along the bottom edge, using a !/ in seam allowance (Fig A). Press the pocket up and baste the side edges to the main body (Fig B).

8

Repeat steps 6–7 placing a pocket at

20½in and 25¼in from the top. Place the last pocket right side up on top of the main body, aligning the bottom edge. Baste in place around the sides and bottom of the pocket.

ADDING THE TABS

9

Fold one tab in half, WST, and press. Open out then fold the two side edges over to meet at the centre. Fold in half again to enclose the raw edges, completing the tab. Topstitch down both long edges. Repeat to make the second tab.

10

Fold each tab in half, matching raw edges. Pin each one 2in in from the outer edges of the hanging, aligning the raw edges with the hanging top edge, and baste in place (Fig C).

ADDING THE BACKING

11

Pin the foam interfacing to the back of the hanging. Baste in place (Fig D). Place the backing fabric RST on top of the hanging. Pin or clip in place. Sew together, leaving a turning gap in the centre of the bottom edge.

12

Clip the corners and trim excess fabric then turn right side out. Fold the edges of the turning gap to the inside and slip stitch closed. Push the dowel through the tabs then tie string at either end to hang.

CUTTING OUT

1

From the main fabric cut:

■ One (1) 10 / in square for the outer base.

■ Two (2) 6¾in x 10 / in pieces for the outer sides.

■ Two (2) pieces using the Craft Caddy End template.

■ One (1) 12 / in x 6$/ in piece for the strap.

■ Four (4) 10¼in x 10 / in pieces for the pockets.

2

From the contrast fabric cut:

■ One (1) 10 / in square for the lining.

■ Two (2) 6¾in x 10 / in lining pieces.

■ Two (2) pieces using the Craft Caddy End template.

■ Four (4) 1 / in x 10 / in strips for the pocket binding.

3

From the fusible batting cut:

■ One (1) 10 / in square for the base.

■ Two (2) 6¾in x 10 / in pieces for the sides.

■ Two (2) pieces using the Craft Caddy End template.

■ Four (4) 5¼in x 10 / in pieces for the pockets.

4

From the foam interfacing cut:

■ One (1) 9 / in square for the base.

■ Two (2) 6in x 9 / in pieces for the sides.

■ Two (2) pieces using the Craft Caddy End template.

PREPARING THE SECTIONS

5

Baste the foam interfacing pieces, using a $/ in seam allowance to the wrong side of their corresponding lining fabric pieces. Then trim away excess foam from the seam allowances to reduce bulk. Press the fusible batting pieces to the wrong side of their corresponding outer pieces, (leave the pockets for the next step). 6

Prepare all four pockets following step 3 of the magazine hanger, omitting the topstitching on the fold.

7

Fold each pocket binding piece in half, WST. Open out, then fold the two long raw edges into the middle crease to create a $/ in x 10 / in binding strip. Press. Sandwich the top folded edge of the pocket pieces between each binding strip. Pin, then topstitch to finish the pockets.

8

Baste each pocket piece onto each outer fabric, aligning the bottom and side edges. Mark a central vertical line on the pocket and sew along the line to create two pocket sections for each side.

9

Press the medium-weight interfacing onto the wrong side of the strap. Fold the strip in the same way as for the binding strip. Topstitch down each long edge.

MAKING UP THE OUTER AND LINING

10

Pin an outer side piece to an outer end panel piece RST along the short edge, making sure the pocket binding edges match. Sew together from the top edge, finishing $/ in above the bottom edge.

11

Attach the other two sides in the same way to create the box outer. Pin the outer base right sides facing to the bottom edges of the sides and ends and sew together, pivoting at each corner. Repeat to make the lining, leaving a turning gap in the centre of one side seam.

ASSEMBLING THE CADDY

12

Place the caddy outer inside the lining with RST and pin or clip in place, aligning the top edges. Mark the points at the top curved edges where the caddy strap will be positioned, as shown on the pattern piece. Sew all the way around the caddy top, but leave two gaps for adding the strap.

13 Trim off the excess fabric, clip corners then turn right side out through the turning gap. Fold the edges of the turning gap to the inside then slip stitch closed. Tuck the lining inside the caddy and push the raw edges of the gaps left for the strap inside. Tuck each strap end into the gap by $/ in, pin and then sew in place. Topstitch all the way around the top of the caddy to finish.

THE LINING FABRIC IS JUST AS IMPORTANT AS THE EXTERIOR IN THIS PRETTY, PRACTICAL MAKE