AN OFF-WHITE BACKGROUND FABRIC MAKES THESE STRIKING BLOCKS REALLY SHINE
CUTTING OUT
1
From each print fat quarter cut (Fig 1):
■ One (1) 7in square (Unit A).
■ Two (2) 6½in squares (Unit B).
■ Four (4) 6in squares (Unit C).
2
From the background fabric cut:
■ Three (3) 7in x WOF. Subcut thirteen
(13) 7in squares.
■ Five (5) 6½in x WOF. Subcut twenty six
(26) 6½in squares.
■ Thirty four (34) 3in x WOF. Join fifteen strips and subcut into six (6) 75½in x 3in and two (2) 78in x 3in. Subcut the remaining strips into one hundred and thirty (130) 3in squares and twenty five (25) 13in x 3in.
3
From the binding fabric cut: ■ Eight (8) 2½in x WOF.
PREPARING YOUR FABRICS
4
Take one Unit A print, the Unit B pieces from a second print, and the Unit C pieces from a third print.
Repeat this process with different prints to make a total of thirteen sets. Each set will make one right and one left block, for a total of twenty six blocks. Only twenty five will be used in the quilt, but you can save the extra block to make the cushion on p22.
5
Work through the following instructions using one set of fabrics to make the first two blocks. Then you can work all
the remaining blocks at once, chain piecing the units if desired.
PIECING THE HST UNITS
6
Take a 7in background square and mark two diagonal lines on the wrong side of the fabric, making an ‘X’. Place RST with a Unit A square, and stitch ¼in from either side of both marked lines.
7
Cut the stitched unit in half vertically and horizontally. Then cut each HST unit along the marked lines to make eight units (Fig 2). Press each unit open along its seam and trim to 3in square.
8
Take four of the HST units, and with the print triangle pointing down to the right, sew a 3in background square to the right side. Take the remaining four HST units, and with the print triangle pointing down to the left, sew a 3in background square to the left side (Fig 3).
SPLITTING THE QST UNITS
9
Take two 6½in background squares and mark one diagonal line on the wrong side of the fabric of each square. Place each square RST with a Unit B square, and stitch ¼in from either side of the marked diagonal lines.
10
Cut along the marked diagonal line of each unit to create four HSTs. Trim each HST to 6in square.
11
Place a Unit C 6in square RST with one HST unit. Mark a diagonal line on the wrong side of the Unit C square, in the
opposite direction of the HST seam. Sew ¼in from either side of the line and cut along the line as before. You will have two mirror image split QST units, one each for the left and right blocks (Fig 4).
12
Repeat step 11 with each HST unit and a Unit C square, to make a total of eight split QST units. Trim each unit to 5½in square, carefully centring the seams. You may find it helpful to align the 2¾in mark of your ruler with the point where the seams meet, and one of the seams with the 45-degree mark when you trim.
MAKING THE BLOCKS
13
Sew one HST unit to the side of each Split QST unit. Refer carefully to Fig 5 on p19 for placement and orientation, so you have four units for the left block and four units for the right block.
14
Take your four units for the left block and one background 3in square. Place the 3in square RST in the bottom right corner of one pieced unit. Sew along the bottom edge, halfway across the square, backstitching when you reach the centre to secure the thread (Fig 6).
15
Press the seam away from the centre square. Join the next unit to the right side, again pressing the seam away from the centre. Then join the third
unit to the bottom, also pressing the seam away from the centre (Fig 7).
16
Sew the final unit in place, folding the top unit out of the way so it’s not caught in the seam. Press away from the centre square. Fold the top unit down over the block, aligning the raw edges of the remaining partial seam. Sew together, overlapping your stitches in the centre and backstitching a few stitches (Fig 8). Press to complete one left block.
17
Repeat steps 14–16 with the remaining pieced units and a background 3in square, but working in the opposite direction to make the right block (Fig 9).
18
Repeat steps 6–17 with the remaining sets of fabric to make a total of twenty six blocks.
ASSEMBLING THE QUILT TOP
19
Arrange the blocks in five columns, alternating the left and right blocks in each column, referring to the Layout Diagram above. Columns 1, 3 and 5 start with a left block at the top and Columns 2 and 4 start with a right block at the top.
20
Join the blocks into columns with a 3in x 13in sashing strip between each block. Add an extra sashing strip to the bottom of Columns 1, 3 and 5. Add an extra sashing strip to the tops of Columns 2 and 4. Press all the seams toward the sashing strips.
21
Join all the columns together with 3in x 75 in strips. Then join the other two 3in x 75 in strips to either side.
22
Join the 3in x 78in strips to the top and bottom to complete the quilt top, continuing to press the seams carefully towards the sashing strips.
QUILTING AND FINISHING
23
Cut the backing fabric in half across the width. Remove the selvedges from the fabric and sew the two pieces together using a in seam. Press the seam open.
24
Press the quilt top and backing well. Next, make a quilt sandwich by placing the backing fabric right side down, the batting on top, then place the quilt top centrally and right side up. Baste the layers together using your preferred method.
25
Quilt as desired. Sarah quilted wavy lines across the quilt top. Trim off the excess batting and backing fabric and square up the quilt.
26
Sew the binding strips together end-to-end using diagonal seams. Press seams open. Fold in half lengthways, wrong sides together, and press.
27
Sew the binding to the right side of the quilt, creating a neat mitre at each corner. Fold the binding over to the back of the quilt and hand stitch in place to finish.