ADD THE SLOTH'S'S CUTE FACFACIAL EXPRESSION WITH HAND EMBROIDERED DETAILS
■ Checked and floral fabrics are from the Malibu Collection by Heather Ross for Windham Fabrics. ■ Cream fabric from Lucy's stash.
CUTTING OUT
1 From the floral fabric cut:
■ One (1) 13in x 10in (front).
■ One (1) 91/2in x 2in (hanging loop).
2 From the pink fabric cut:
■ One (1) 13in x 53/4in (front).
■ One (1) 7¼in x 61/2in (pocket lining).
■ One (1) 13in x 15¼in (front lining).
■ One (1) 13in x 5¼in (back upper lining).
■ One (1) 13in x 11¼in (back lower lining).
3 From the checked fabric cut:
■ One (1) 13in x 6¼in (back upper).
■ One (1) 13in x 12¼in (back lower).
■ One (1) 7¼in x 61/2in (pocket).
4 From the cream fabric cut: ■ Two (2) pieces using the Pillow template.
5 From the green fabric cut: ■ Four (4) pieces using the Small Leaf template.
■ Two (2) pieces using the Large Leaf template.
6 From the brown plush cut: ■ Two (2) pieces using the Body template.
■ Four (4) pieces using the Arm template.
7 From the beige plush cut: ■ One (1) piece using the Face template.
8 From the dark brown plush fabric cut: ■ Two (2) pieces using the Eye Marking template.
9 From the black wool felt cut: ■ One (1) piece using the Nose template.
10 From the batting cut: ■ One (1) piece using the Pillow template.
■ One (1) 16in square.
MAKING THE SLOTH
11 Pin and sew a pair of arm pieces, RST. Leave a gap in the outer side for turning, as marked. Trim the seams and turn RS out. Repeat for the other arm.
12 Lay the body pieces RST and sandwich each arm inside the layers, facing inwards and with the outer edges facing upwards towards the head (Fig A). Pin and sew all around the edge of the body, leaving a gap in the side for turning. Turn RS out after trimming and clipping notches in the seams. Take a small amount of stuffing and stuff the legs lightly. Then topstitch, using coordinating thread, from the outside of the leg to the inside, using the dotted line on the template as a reference (Fig B).
13 Stuff the rest of the body and head, quite lightly, but firmly enough to create a smooth shape. Turn the raw edge of the fabric under and ladder stitch the opening closed. Then stuff each arm, firmly at the ends and then more lightly, leaving about half unstuffed towards the tops, so the arms can flop. Neatly turn under the raw fabric edges and ladder stitch both arms closed.
14 Take the face piece and pin the eye markings in place about halfway up the sides, using the images as your guide. Using dark thread, stitch in place using small overstitches right at the very edge of the fabric. You do not need to sew the outside edges yet (Fig C).
15 Pin the nose centrally between the eye markings. Using black thread, make tiny overstitches at the very edge of the fabric. Using a small stick, push in the tiniest amount of stuffing into the circle just before you finish sewing and
fasten off, to add a little padding and height. Then pin the face piece onto the front of the head, using the images to guide the position. Use small overstitches to sew it in place.
16 Use pins to mark out the shape of the smiling mouth. Use three strands of black embroidery thread to backstitch the line (Fig D). Fasten off with a couple of tiny stitches. Push the needle through the face and out at the side before snipping off the thread neatly.
17 Determine the eye position using a couple of pins. They should be towards the inner side of an eye marking. Using the cream stranded cotton, sew a circle using satin stitch. Repeat for the other eye. Fasten off and take the needle and thread away from the eye area before snipping off.
MAKING THE PILLOW
18 Place the two pillow pieces RST. Lay the batting on top. Sew around the outer edge, leaving a turning gap. Turn right side out, stitch the gap closed and press to finish the pillow.
PREPARING THE EPP FLOWER
19 Lay a hexagon template on the wrong side of each of the 2½in square pieces and pin or glue in place. Cut around the shape leaving approx ¼in seam allowance. Fold over the seam allowances onto the paper piece and secure with basting stitches or glue.
20 Place two hexagons RST and whipstitch along the joining edge. Continue to whipstitch the other hexagons together until the flower is formed (Fig E). Press, then pop out all the paper templates from inside each hexagon shape and remove the basting stitches. Press again (Fig F).
MAKING THE BED POCKET
21 Centre the completed flower on top of the pocket rectangle and pin in place. Appliqué all around the outer edge of the flower very close to the edge (Fig G).
22 Place the pocket piece RST with the pocket lining piece. Sew around the outer edge, leaving a turning gap at the bottom. Trim the seams and turn RS out. Press, folding the raw edges from the turning gap to the inside.
23 Pin a length of trim to the top edge of the pocket and hand sew in place, folding the raw edges underneath.
MAKING THE PYJAMA CASE
24 Sew the two front pieces together along the long edge. Press the seam open. Place on top of the batting and baste in place. Trim away excess batting.
25 With the front piece right side up, place the pocket on top, also right side up. Align the pocket approx 1¾in from the bottom edge, in the centre. Pin, then baste in place (Fig H). Topstitch in place along the sides and bottom, pivoting with the needle down at the corners. Stitch close to the edge of the pocket, closing the turning gap of the pocket in the process.
26 Place the front piece from step 25 right side down. Layer the front lining piece on top, wrong sides together. Baste around the outer edge.
27 Take the back upper and matching lining piece and place wrong sides together, aligning the short sides and
one long raw edge. The back upper will extend approx 1in above the lining piece. Press this edge under by ½in, then press under again, enclosing the raw edge. Topstitch in place. Repeat this process with the back lower pieces (Fig I).
28 Fold the hanging loop in half lengthwise, RST. Sew along the long edge, leaving an approx 1in gap in the centre for turning. Trim the seam and turn right side out.
29 Press the loop, turning the raw edges to the inside at the turning gap. Topstitch along both long edges. Fold in half, bringing the raw edges at the short ends together (Fig J).
30 Place the front piece RS up on your work surface. Place the hanging loop at the top in the centre, matching the raw edges. Baste in place.
31 Place the smaller back piece on top of the front, right side down, aligning the raw edges at the top and sides. Then place the larger back piece also right side down, aligning the raw edges at the bottom and sides. The finished edges of the two back pieces will overlap. Pin, then baste around the outer edge (Fig K).
32 Sew around the outer edge of the case, pivoting with the needle down at the corners. Backstitch along the sections where the two back pieces overlap. Zigzag stitch all the way around, within the seam allowance to finish. Turn the case right side out and press well.
FINISHING THE PYJAMA CASE
33 Place the two large leaf pieces RST. Sew around the outer edge, leaving a gap for turning. Clip and trim the seam and turn RS out. Press, and hand sew the turning gap closed. Repeat the process to make two small leaves.
34 Fold one leaf in half, and use a few hand stitches at one end to hold the fold. Repeat with the other leaves. Arrange the leaves together, hand stitching in place and adding a button to the top (Fig L). Stitch the leaves onto the front of the pyjama case, just below the loop.
35 Tuck the sloth into the pocket, and put the pillow behind its head to finish.