LINE DANCE
Combine crisp graphic blocks in bright colour combos to make this sunny summer quilt and matching tote
Combine crisp graphic blocks in bright colour combos to make this sunny summer quilt and matching tote
FOR A MORE MINIMALIST FINISH, OPT FOR A CRISP WHITE BACKING FABRIC
NOTES
■ Seam allowances are ¼in throughout,
unless otherwise noted.
■ Press seams open throughout, unless
otherwise instructed.
■ RST = right sides together.
■ WOF = width of fabric.
■ You may also choose to use Jelly Roll strips for this pattern. See step 1 for details on the number of strips needed for each fabric.
■ This quilt uses a 4x4 block layout. The
blocks are 18.5in square unfinished.
■ Quilted by Heather Dersksen
(redwillowquilts.ca)
■ Fabric supplied by FIGO Fabrics
(figofabrics.com)
FABRICS USED
All fabrics are from FIGO Fabrics. Print fabrics are from the Prickly Pear collection by Emily Taylor. Background fabric is from the Serenity collection by Ghazal Razavi.
CUTTING OUT
1
Cut your coloured print fabrics into 2½in x WOF strips, and subcut following steps 2– 4 below. You need three (3) strips from each of the yellow and pink prints, four (4) strips from each of the light blue strips, and six (6) strips from the dark blue print.
2
From each of the yellow and pink prints, subcut the three strips as follows:
■ From each of two strips subcut one (1) 2½in x 17½in (F), two (2) 2½in x 8½in (H) and one (1) 2½in x 4½in (J).
■ From the third strip subcut two (2) 2½in x 1½in (B) and six (6) 2½in squares (G).
3
From each of the light blue prints, subcut the four strips as follows:
■ From each of three strips subcut one (1) 2½in x 17½in (F), two (2) 2½in x 8½in (H) and one (1) 2½in x 4½in (J).
■ From the fourth strip subcut three (3) 2½in x 1½in (B) and nine (9) 2½in squares (G).
4
From the dark blue prints, subcut the six strips as follows:
■ From each of four strips, subcut one (1) 2½in x 17½in (F), two (2) 2½in x 8½in (H) and one (1) 2½in x 4½in (J).
■ From the remaining two dark blue print strips subcut two (2) 2½in x 1½in (B) and six (6) 2½in squares (G).
5
From the background fabric cut:
■ Sixteen (16) 1½in x WOF. Subcut each strip into two (2) 1½in x 11½in (C) and two (2) 1½in x 8½in (D).
■ Six (6) 1 in x WOF. Subcut into a total of thirty two (32) 1 in x 5 in (A) and twenty (20) 1 in x 2 in (B).
■ One (1) 2 in x WOF. Subcut into twenty
eight (28) 2 in x 1 in (B).
■ Six (6) 2 in x WOF. Subcut a total of thirty two (32) 2 in x 5 in (E) and sixteen (16) 2 in x 1 in (B).
■ Four (4) 2 in x WOF. Subcut into twenty
four (24) 2 in x 6 in (I).
■ Eight (8) 2 in x WOF. Subcut each strip into four (4) 2 in x 8 in (H) and one (1) 2 in x 6 in (I).
■ Two (2) 4 in x WOF. Subcut into sixteen
(16) 4 in squares (K).
6
From the binding fabric cut: ■ Eight (8) 2 in x WOF.
PREPARING YOUR FABRICS
7
Before you begin, organise your coloured pieces into blocks. For each block you will need, one B, F and J piece, two H pieces and three G pieces, in each of the colours. Use the same prints within each block. You will make:
■ Six (6) yellow/light blue (two Block A and four Block B).
■ Two (2) yellow/dark blue (both Block A).
■ Six (6) pink/light blue (four Block A and two Block B).
■ Two (2) pink/dark blue (both Block B).
8
As you work, refer to the Block Layout diagrams for both Block A and B, for placement. We recommend working through the first block, before chain piecing the remaining blocks if you prefer.
MAKING BLOCK A
9
Take one set of coloured pieces for a pink/light blue Block A. Begin by sewing the J pieces to either side a K piece. Then join an H piece from each print to the top and bottom (Fig 1).
10
Join one of the G pieces to the bottom of an I piece. Join a matching print H piece to the right side. Then join a D piece to the right side. Repeat with the print of the other block colour (Fig 2). Join these units to either side of the unit from step 9, aligning matching print G and H pieces, to complete the centre of the block (Fig 3).
11
Working with one print, arrange the pieces as shown in Fig 4. Sew the units together in rows, then sew the rows together. Repeat with the other print to make a second unit.
12
Sew the units from step 11 to the top and bottom of the centre unit, aligning the prints to create the pattern, referring to the Layout Diagram. This completes one Block A.
13
Repeat steps 9–12 to make four pink/ light blue, two yellow/light blue and two yellow/dark blue Block A.
MAKING BLOCK B
14
Block B is a mirror image of Block A, and uses the same construction method. Follow steps 9–12 to sew each Block B, referring to Fig 5 for step 10 to make the side units for the centre and Fig 6 to make the top and bottom block units in step 11. You will need four yellow/light blue, two pink/light blue and two pink/ dark blue Block B.
PIECING THE QUILT TOP
15
Arrange the blocks in four rows of four blocks, as per the Layout Diagram. Note, the blocks in rows 2 and 4 are rotated 180-degrees to create the pattern.
16
Sew the blocks together in rows, carefully matching seams of the print pieces. Press the seams to the right in the first and third rows. Press seams to the left in the second and fourth rows.
17
Sew the rows together, nesting seams between blocks, and matching seams between the print pieces. Press seams open or to one side as preferred.
FINISHING THE QUILT
18
Cut the backing fabric in half across the width. Remove the selvedges and sew the two pieces together using a larger in seam. Press the seam open.
19
Press the quilt top and backing well. Make a quilt sandwich by placing the backing fabric right side down, the batting on top, then place the quilt top centrally and right side up. Baste the layers together using your preferred method.
20
Quilt as desired. Heather Dersksen (redwillowquilts.ca) quilted a wavy line pattern using a longarm quilting machine and a light coloured thread. Trim off the excess batting and backing fabric and square up the quilt.
21
Sew the eight 2 in x WOF binding strips together end-to-end using diagonal seams. Press the seams open and trim away the dog-ears. Fold the joined binding strip in half lengthways, wrong sides together, and press.
22
Sew the joined binding strip to the right side of the quilt, creating a neat mitre at each corner. Fold the binding over to the back of the quilt and secure in place temporarily with pins or binding clips. Hand or machine stitch in place around the edge to finish.
CUTTING OUT
1
From each of the yellow and blue prints cut two (2) 2½in x WOF strips. Subcut each set of strips into:
■ One (1) 2½in x 1½in (B).
■ One (1) 2½in x 17½in (F).
■ Three (3) 2½in squares (G).
■ Two (2) 2½in x 8½in (H).
■ One (1) 2½in x 4½in (J).
2
From each of the blue prints, also cut one (1) 2½in x 4½in.
3 From the background fabric cut: ■ Four (4) 1½in x 5½in (A). ■ Eight (8) 1½in x 2½in (B). ■ Four (4) 1½in x 11½in (C). ■ Four (4) 1½inx 8½in (D).
■ Four (4) 2½in x 5½in (E). ■ Four (4) 2½in x 8½in (H). ■ Four (4) 2½in x 6½in (I).
■ Two (2) 4½in squares (K).
■ Two (2) 4½in x 5½in.
■ Two (2) 4½in x 11½in.
4
From the lining fabric cut:
■ Two (2) 6in x 34in (handles).
■ Two (2) 18½in x 22½in.
5
From the batting cut: ■ Two (2) 24in x 20in.
MAKING THE OUTER PANELS
6
Follow steps 7–14 of the quilt instructions to make one Block A and one Block B for the outer panels.
7
Take one of the light blue print 2½in x 4½in pieces. Sew a background 4½in x 5½in piece to one side, and a 4½in x 11½in piece to the other side. Repeat this process with the other dark blue print piece measuring 2½in x 4½in.
8
Sew the units from the step 7 to the bottom of each block, aligning the blue strips to extend the block design (Fig A).
9
Place the blocks on top of the batting and baste in place. Quilt as desired. Monika quilted a crosshatch pattern. Trim away excess batting and square up each panel to 18½in x 22½in.
ADD FUN FLORAL HANDLES TO MATCH THE LINING OF THIS CUTE TWO-BLOCK TOTE
MAKING THE HANDLES
10
Take one handle piece and press in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Unfold, then press the long raw edges in to meet the centre crease and press. Refold in half, enclosing the raw edges. Repeat with the other handle piece.
11
Topstitch along both long edges of each handle piece, backstitching at each end to secure.
MAKING THE LINING POCKET
12
Take the pocket piece and fold in half widthwise, RST. Sew around the outer edge, leaving a gap for turning and backstitching at each end of the pocket seams (Fig B).
13
Clip the corners and turn right side out. Press the raw edges of the turning gap to the inside. The gap will be closed when the pocket is added to the lining. Topstitch along the top folded edge of the pocket, backstitching at each end.
14
Take one lining piece and finger press to find the vertical centre. Align the pocket in the centre, approx 5in from the top (Fig C). Both pieces should be right side up. Pin in place, then topstitch along the sides and bottom. Sew close to the edge, ensuring you close the turning gap as you sew.
ASSEMBLING THE TOTE
15
Take one completed block, and arrange on your work surface with the yellow edge at the top. Pin one handle
on top, aligning the short raw edges at the top 4in from each side of the block (Fig D). Baste in place to secure.
16
Take one lining piece and place on top of the block, RST (Fig E). Sew along the top edge, backstitching at each end. Press the seam open.
17
Repeat steps 15–16 with the other block, handle and lining pieces.
18
Place the two tote units RST, so the lining is against the lining and the quilted block against the quilted block. Carefully align the seams and pin in place all the way around (Fig F). Make sure the handles will not be caught in the outer seam, pinning out of the way if necessary.
19
Sew all the way around the outer edge, leaving a 10in gap in the side of the lining at least 5in above the corner. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam to secure.
20
Pull the layers apart at one corner of the lining. Bring the bottom and side seams together, forming a triangle. Pin to secure. Measure 3½in from the point and draw a line across the corner (Fig G). Stitch along the marked line. Trim leaving a ¼in seam allowance (Fig H).
21
Repeat step 20 to box the three remaining corners of the tote.
22
Carefully turn the tote bag right side out through the gap in the lining. Neatly sew the lining gap closed with a matching thread, either by hand or with a narrow machine topstitch.
23
Push the lining down into the tote. Press around the top edge, making sure the lining is turned completely to the inside of the tote. Topstitch around the top edge to finish (Fig I).