Love Patchwork & Quilting

NIFTY NUMBER TAGS MAKE THIS FESTIVE PROJECT A QUICK AND EASY FINISH!

- Sarah Griffiths LP&Q Senior Technical Editor Sarah spends her downtime daydreamin­g about more quilts than she could ever actually sew! spindleand­shears

YOU WILL NEED

■ Fabric A (red print): one (1)

fat quarter

■ Fabric B (green print): 5/8yd

■ Fabric C (pink print – includes

backing): ¾yd

■ Fabric D (light pink solid): ¾yd

■ Fabric E (white solid):

one (1) fat sixteenth

■ Fabric F (silver solid):

1¾in x 4½in scrap

■ Fabric G (pink plaid print

– includes binding): ¼yd

■ Fabric H (red plaid print):

one (1) fat eighth

■ Fabric I (white print):

one (1) fat eighth

■ Fabric J (green solid):

one (1) fat eighth

■ Fabric K (dark pink solid):

one (1) fat eighth

■ Fabric L (red solid):

3½in x 4½in scrap

■ Batting: 25in x 32in

■ Embroidery thread (optional)

■ Number tags (optional)

FINISHED SIZE

■ 21in x 28in

NOTES

■ Seam allowances are ¼in, unless

otherwise noted.

■ Press seams open throughout, unless

otherwise instructed.

■ When cutting directiona­l print fabric, take care to cut pieces in the correct orientatio­n (refer to the photograph­y).

■ Press all fabrics well before cutting.

■ WOF = width of fabric.

■ RST = right sides together.

■ Fabrics supplied by PBS Fabrics

(pbsfabrics.com).

FABRICS USED

All fabrics are by PBS Fabrics, as follows: ■ Print fabrics are from the Home for

Christmas collection by Angela Nickeas. ■ Solid fabrics are Agave, Petunia, Christmas Red, Silver and Blush from the Painter's Palette Solids collection.

CUTTING OUT

1

From Fabric A cut:

■ Three (3) 3in x 3½in.

■ One (1) 4¾in x 20½in.

2

From Fabric B cut:

■ Three (3) 3in x 3½in.

■ One (1) 3½in x 22in.

■ Two (2) 20½in x 2½in.

3

From Fabric C cut:

■ Three (3) 3in x 3½in.

■ Two (2) 4in squares.

■ One (1) 27in x 32in for backing.

4

From Fabric D cut:

■ Eighteen (18) 1¼in x 3½in.

■ Four (4) 3½in x 16in.

■ Two (2) 3½in x 6¼in.

■ Two (2) 4½in x 7¾in.

■ One (1) 16½in x 18in.

5

From Fabric E cut:

■ Two (2) 1¾in x 11in.

6

From Fabric F cut:

■ One (1) 1¾in x 4½in.

7

From Fabric G cut:

■ Three (3) 3in x 3½in.

■ Three (3) 2¼in x WOF for binding.

8

From each of Fabrics H, I, J and K cut: ■ Three (3) 3in x 3½in.

9

From Fabric L cut:

■ One (1) 3½in x 4½in.

PREPARING THE POCKETS

10

Take your print and solid fabric 3in x 3½in pieces; you should have a total of twenty four. Arrange the pieces in the order you want them to appear on your calendar, referring to the photograph­y for guidance. You will need four rows with five pieces each, and two rows with two pieces each to form the pockets. 11

Once you’re happy with the order of your pieces, sew the pocket pieces together with a Fabric D 1¼in x 3½in piece between each one, pressing seams toward the pockets (Fig 1). You will have four long pocket rows, and two short pocket rows.

12

Take one of the long pocket rows and place RST with a Fabric D 3½in x 16in strip. Sew around the outer edge, leaving a gap in the centre bottom. Clip the corners and turn right side out through the gap. Press, turning the raw edges in at the turning gap.

13

Repeat step 12 with all four of the long pocket rows. Repeat again with the two short pocket rows, using the Fabric D 3½in x 6¼in pieces.

SEWING THE BACKGROUND

14

Sew the Fabric D 4½in x 7¾in pieces to either side of the Fabric L piece. Sew this to the bottom of the Fabric D 18in x 16½in piece to form the building with front door.

15

Sew the Fabric B 2½in x 20½in pieces to either side of the building unit. Then sew the Fabric B 3½in x 22in piece to the top to make the top border.

16

Take the Fabric F piece, and on the right side mark a 60-degree line from each bottom corner. Take one Fabric E piece and mark a 60-degree line on the wrong side at one corner. Place the pieces RST, aligning the marked lines at one end. Pin in place, sew along the line, trim a ¼in

seam allowance and press open. Repeat at the other end to make the pavement strip (Fig 2).

17

Sew the pavement strip to the bottom of the building, carefully centring the Fabric F piece with the door. Once sewn in place, trim each end of the strip so it's even with the panel.

18

Sew the Fabric A 4¾in x 20½in strip to the bottom of the pavement strip to finish the background panel.

FINISHING THE ADVENT CALENDAR

19

Press the background panel well, and place right side up on top of your batting. Baste in place.

20

Place your pocket rows on top of the building section, making sure they are evenly spaced and aligned at the sides. The two short pocket rows should align with the top of the door. Leave approx ¾in between rows, and approx 1in at each side. When you’re happy with the placement, pin in place.

21

Working one row at a time, topstitch the pocket rows in place, backstitch­ing at the beginning and end of each seam. Starting at one end, sew down the side of the pocket, across the bottom and up the next side, pivoting with the needle down. Continue across the background spacing strip, then around the next pocket, working in the same way until all pockets are stitched.

22

Add any embroidery details to your panel. Sarah stitched a wreath on the door using two strands of embroidery thread and straight stitches.

23

Press the backing fabric well. Place the backing right side down and centre the panel on top, right side up. Baste, then quilt as desired. Sarah stitched in the ditch around the outside of the building. Trim away excess batting and backing.

24

Take the Fabric C 4in squares and press in half diagonally, wrong sides together. Place in the top corners, aligning the raw edges. Baste in place.

25

Sew the binding strips together end-to-end using diagonal seams. Press the seams open and trim away the dog ears. Fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press.

26

Sew the joined binding strip to the right side of the advent calendar, folding a neat mitre at each corner. Fold the binding over to the back of the calendar and hand or machine stitch in place to finish.

27

If you’re using paper tags, sew one to each pocket. Sarah used a pin to poke two holes at the top of each tag and sewed in place with embroidery thread knotted at the back of each pocket.

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