NEW TO HALF-RECTANGLE TRIANGLES? MASTER THEM WITH THIS EASY PATTERN!
NOTES
■ Seam allowances are ¼in throughout,
unless otherwise noted.
■ Press seams open throughout, unless
otherwise instructed.
■ Press fabrics well before cutting.
■ WOF = width of fabric.
■ RST = right sides together.
■ HRT = Half-rectangle Triangle.
■ Pattern assumes that the width
of fabric is at least 42in.
■ Fabric supplied by Ruby Star
Society (rubystarsociety.com).
FABRICS USED
All fabrics are from Ruby Star Society collections, as follows:
■ Fabric A is Sweet Cream from the Speckled collection by Rashida Coleman-Hale.
■ Fabric D is Dusk from Add it
Up by Alexia Marcelle Abegg.
The remaining print fabrics are from the Honey collection by Alexia Marcelle Abegg as follows:
■ Fabric B: Daisy in Earth.
■ Fabric C: Chamomile in Dahlia.
■ Backing fabric: Beads in Dusk.
CUTTING OUT
1 From Fabric A cut:
■ Sixty four (64) 61/2in x 21/2in.
■ Thirty two (32) 71/2in x 5in.
■ Twenty (20) 121/2in x 21/2in.
■ Fourteen (14) 21/2in x WOF.
■ Four (4) 11/2in x WOF.
2 From Fabric B cut:
■ Twenty four (24) 71/2in x 5in.
■ Four (4) 11/2in x WOF.
3 From each of Fabrics C and D cut:
■ Four (4) 71/2in x 5in.
■ Four (4) 11/2in x WOF.
4 From the binding fabric cut:
■ Seven (7) 2¼in x WOF.
MAKING THE HRT UNITS
5 Place one Fabric A and one Fabric B 71/2in x 5in rectangle with right sides together. Rotate the top rectangle to the left so that its top right corner aligns with the top left corner of the bottom rectangle and the bottom left corner of the top rectangle aligns with the bottom right corner of the bottom rectangle (Fig 1).
6 Mark a diagonal line between the rotated corners, and sew ¼in either side of the line. Then cut along the line in order to separate it into two HRT units (Fig 2).
7 Press the seams open. Leave the units untrimmed for now. Repeat the process in steps 5– 6, pairing all of the Fabric B, C and D rectangles with a Fabric A rectangle. You will have a total of forty eight Fabric A/B HRTs, eight Fabric A/C HRTs and eight Fabric A/D HRTs.
8 Mark the points of the diagonal on your quilt ruler as follows. Use a bit of washi tape, or a removable pen, as preferred. If you don’t want to mark your ruler, you can just note the positions by eye. Mark the point ¼in from the edge, 6¼in from the top. Also mark the point ¼in from the edge, 4¼in from the right side (Fig 3).
9 Take one HRT unit, and place right side up on your cutting mat. Place your quilt ruler on top, aligning the diagonal seam so it runs through the marked points, and the edges extend past the 41/2in mark at the left and 61/2in mark at the bottom. Trim along the right and top edge of the unit (Fig 4).
10 Turn your HRT unit, aligning the trimmed edges with the 41/2in x 61/2in marks, with the seam aligning with the marked points on your ruler. Trim the remaining edges (Fig 5). Note that the seam will be slightly offset from the corners once the unit is trimmed, allowing it to be in the right place once sewn into the quilt. Repeat the cutting process for each of the remaining HRT units.
ASSEMBLING THE BLOCKS
11 Take four Fabric A 2½in x 6½in rectangles, three Fabric A/B HRTs and one Fabric A/C HRT. Arrange them as shown in Fig 6, to create the pinwheel.
12 Sew the Fabric A rectangles to each of the HRTs along the long edges. Sew the units in pairs, pressing seams in opposite directions. Then sew the pairs together, nesting seams at the centre (Fig 7). Press seams open, or to opposite sides to create a spun seam at the centre.
13 Repeat the process in steps 11–12 to make a total of eight blocks. Repeat again, using the Fabric A/D HRT units with the remaining Fabric A/B HRT units in order to make eight more blocks.
MAKING THE TOP AND BOTTOM BORDERS
14 Sew the Fabric A 2½in x WOF strips together in pairs, using a diagonal seam along the short edge. Set three of these strips aside to use as sashing strips when you assemble the quilt later.
15 For each of Fabric A, Fabric B, Fabric C and Fabric D, sew the 1½in x WOF strips into pairs, using diagonal seams along the short edge as before.
16 Take one each of the 1½in strips and sew together, referring to Fig 8. Then sew a Fabric A 2½in strip to the top and bottom to complete the top border. Repeat this process with the remaining strips in order to make the bottom border, reversing the order of the strips as shown.
ASSEMBLING THE QUILT TOP
17 Arrange the blocks in four rows of four, referring to the Layout Diagram. Alternate the Fabric C and D blocks, and rotate as shown to achieve the pattern.
18 Sew the blocks together in rows, with a Fabric A 2½in x 12½in strip in between each block. Additionally, sew a Fabric A strip at each end of the rows.
19 Sew the block rows together, with the Fabric A sashing strips between each row. Trim the edge of the sashing strips so that they are even with the block rows.
20 Sew the borders to the top and bottom of the quilt top, making sure that the Fabric D strips are toward the centre. Trim the edges so that they are even with the sides of the quilt top.
QUILTING AND FINISHING
21 Cut the backing fabric in half, to make two approx 80in x WOF pieces. Remove the selvedge from each piece and sew them together, along the long edge, using a ½in seam. Press the seam open and press the backing fabric well.
22 Make a quilt sandwich by placing the backing fabric right side down, the batting on top, then place the quilt top centrally and right side up. Baste the layers together using basting pins, basting spray, or basting stitches, as preferred.
23 Quilt as desired. Kathleen used the Echoed Curves walking foot design from the book Walk by Jacquie Gering, using Aurifil 50wt thread in Ermine (2312). Trim off the excess batting and backing fabric and square up the quilt.
24 Sew the binding strips together end-to-end using diagonal seams. Trim away the excess and press the seams open. Fold in half lengthways, with the wrong sides together, and press along the full length of the combined strips.
25 Sew the joined binding strip to the right side of the quilt, creating a neat mitre at each corner. Fold the binding over to the back of the quilt and secure in sections using binding clips. Hand or machine stitch in place to finish the quilt.