In a stroke of irony, climate change has actually helped Tasmania become the perfect place to produce wine

As Tasmania’s climate is becoming increasingly more advantageous for grape growing, more mainland winemaking companies and vignerons are packing their bags and making the most of our perfect conditions

The Tasmanian wine industry is surging ahead, aided by climate change, a shift in drinking behaviours and hard-won experience, according to Bream Creek vigneron, Fred Peacock.

“Tasmania is in the right place at the right time,” says Peacock, a pioneer of the industry who was appointed Tasmania’s first Viticulture Officer in the mid-1980s.

“Climate change has been very kind to Tasmanian viticulture. Consistently warmer temperatures have made us more reliable as a producer. It’s giving us a greater range of planting options. There’s now quite a lot of Shiraz being planted, particularly in the south and east of Tasmania. Our colder seasons are nowhere near as cold for vines as they were 15-20 years ago. That’s one of the reasons why we are seeing mainland winemaking companies [such as Brown Brothers] coming into Tasmania.”

Peacock says Australians are increasingly happy to pay for high-quality wines such as Tasmanian wines, which typically have a higher price point ($22.44 per bottle, on average, according to Wine Tasmania figures) than other Australian wines ($8.13 per bottle, on average).

“If you look at the trends concerning how alcohol is consumed in Australia, there’s a definite focus on drinking better quality wine, but probably a little less of it,” he says. “In a way, Tasmania has finally come of age and the future is particularly exciting because we now have a very strong industry that is producing some stunning wines.”

Growing national and international interest in Tasmanian wine is borne out by the latest tourism figures. According to the 2018 Tourism Visitor Survey, just under 300,000 tourists from interstate and overseas called into a Tasmanian cellar door in the year to March 2018 – the equivalent of 23 per cent of all visitors to Tasmania.

The industry contributes more than $100 million annually to the local economy, and $15.2 million through wine-related tourism, according to a report commissioned by Wine Tasmania, which was published this year.

There are currently 2000 plus hectares under vine, producing 16,280 tonnes of fruit — up from 47ha producing 154 tonnes of fruit in 1986. There are seven distinct wine growing areas: the Tamar Valley, East Coast and North East (Pipers River), which together account for the bulk of grapes grown here (40, 20 and 19 per cent respectively); the Coal River Valley; the Derwent Valley; North-West; and the Huon/Channel area.

Peacock says the current success follows years of experimentation by industry pioneers such as Pipers Brook Vineyard and Heemskerk, both in northern Tasmania, and Moorilla in southern Tasmania, combined with the gradual mechanisation of vineyard work in recent years.

“Back in the ‘70s we were at the very forefront of learning about cool climate viticulture,” he says. “When the industry started here, it was made up of over one third Cabernet Sauvignon, which was generally unsuited to our climate then. It really only showed promise in the hottest areas of Tasmania. In parts of the Coal Valley and some areas around Launceston it performed quite well.

“The lesson was, we should have planted a lot more Pinot originally than we did. Tasmania is really becoming known as the home of pinot noir in Australia.”

When vineyard owners better understood how Tasmania’s climate and topography interacted with the grape varieties, changes were made to planting systems and harvesting techniques. “In the late 1980s, there started to be a realisation that we needed a more efficient planting system, including higher vine densities, single-row plantings and simpler trellises,” Peacock says.

“About that time, the cost of labour increased and we were encouraged to look at the future mechanisation of some of the vineyards. We are now doing a significant portion of mechanical harvesting of grapes, and also mechanical pruning of grapes.

“That’s been a massive change. A vineyard services industry has grown up around the viticulture industry in terms of vineyard maintenance and establishment.”

The expansion of the industry over the past decade has been rapid in areas such as the East Coast, and the Coal River, Tamar and Huon valleys. “The track record of the vineyards on the East Coast has been very strong and that’s encouraging more devel- opment there. The establishment of the Swan Irrigation Scheme [which should hopefully be fully operational within 12 months] also means there’s now irrigation available in some prime vineyard areas,” Peacock says.

Wine Tasmania’s chief executive Sheralee Davies agrees: “The East Coast of Tasmania is one of the fastest growing wine areas in the state.”

Events such as the East Coast Wine Weekend, which is in its fourth year, reflect the growth of wine tourism in the state. Beginning on Friday with a ‘Meet the Makers’ event at Freycinet Lodge, the two-day celebration of Tasmanian wine and food includes cellar door specials (of up to 15 per cent off wine sales) and wine tastings – and the signature event, the Great Eastern Wine and Dine Dinner, at Freycinet Lodge on Saturday night.

There are nine participating wineries, from Orford to Ansons Bay on the northeast coast, including Spring Vale at Cranbrook, Devil’s Corner at Apslawn, Milton at Swansea, Craigie Knowe at Cranbrook and Freycinet at Bicheno.

“We have a few new people moving into vineyards on the East Coast and they are bringing different ideas and abilities, and all of that is contributing to a really exciting time and a lot of interest in East Coast wines,” Davies says.

Newcomers include Sandy and Glenn Travers, who recently bought Craigie Knowe Vineyard, which was first planted in 1979.

“This is their first foray into wine and they are doing great things there,” Davies says. “Gala Estate is a farming property that’s been in the family for five to six generations but only recently has had grapes. It’s run by a young couple with kids and again, they have a cellar door and they are planting more vineyard area in the next year.”

Peacock says the interest in high-quality Tasmanian wine is exciting. “We have finally got an industry that is strong and stable and has solid backing in terms of experience, and we have attracted a lot of international attention. The world is watching us,” he says. For more information visit freycinetlodge.com.au/wineweekend ‘Meet the Makers’ is a free event with complimentary tastings and wine sales at Freycinet Lodge Hazards Bar and Lounge on Friday from 5-7pm. Accommodation is available at Freycinet Lodge from $309 per night, including breakfast, for the duration of the East Coast Wine Weekend. To book, phone 6256 7222