Simply, Bellissimo!
When St Mary’s Hospital opened to serve “the labouring classes” in 1841, the population of Hobart was around 20,000 and the town was better known for whaling than for the quality of its restaurants. Times have changed and southern hospitality has taken on a whole new meaning as Hobart’s bar and restaurant scene continues to grow. One of the newest additions is Peppina, built abutting the rough-hewn sandstone foundations of the old hospital which, along with the former Land Titles Office, has been transformed into The Tasman, a luxury hotel by Marriott.
Named for his grandmother, Peppina is helmed by chef Massimo Mele, who has brought his family’s Neopolitan roots to the plate by way of Tasmania’s produce and seasons. Mele is passionate about showcasing local farmers and producers and has spent years developing relationships that now delight diners in dishes ranging from street-food style fried pizza to succulent slabs of pork belly with crackling.
We begin with a plump Boomer Bay oyster served with a squeeze of lemon and an elderflower mignonette on the side – it’s a simple and refreshing taste of the sea. Pirates Bay octopus with an almond sauce is equally delicious, as are lightly pickled sardines atop a bed of sweet agrodolce and a sliver of toast.
The wine list is extensive and includes both local and Italian wines, sommelier Michael Fisher CHK is happy to assist with recommendations and my husband is more than happy to take all of them – enjoying a trip through the wine regions of Italy as our meal unfolds. Service throughout the evening is outstanding, with water glasses refilled, our table kept clean and dishes arriving perfectly timed.
Pizza fritta is a popular street food in Naples, usually served stuffed with fillings including tomatoes, pork scratchings and ricotta. Here, Mele has deconstructed it, serving a piping-hot and lightly salted disc of fried and puffed dough with a scoop of braised and smashed zucchini and peas with just a hint of chilli. It’s wonderfully moreish and quickly disappears. Another antipasti dish of light and tender meatballs served in sugo and topped with scarmorza (smoked mozzarella) conjure up visions of noisy family dinners.
It wouldn’t be an Italian meal without pasta and we try paccheri (fat tubes) with Genovese sauce, a rich, slow-cooked beef, pork and onion ragu with a sprinkling of sharp and salty parmesan. The pasta is perfectly al dente and the velvety ragu is full of flavour – it’s a Neopolitan specialty despite its misleading name.
A dish of flaked blue eye accompanied by delicate gnocchi in a cherry tomato sauce is deceptively simple – well executed by a deft hand. Mele has been working in restaurants since he was 9, when he started helping out at his parents’ place in Glenorchy and has cooked in hatted restaurants all over Australia before returning to Hobart and establishing himself here.
Our main course is two thick slices of pork belly, crowned with golden crackling and served with a bright salsa verde that cuts through the richness of the meat. A bowl of crisp roasted potatoes includes three plump cloves of garlic, my husband swiftly devours all of them, apparently vampires have been an issue for him lately, but not tonight! Kitchen gardens have been established on the property and the herbs in a fresh leaf salad with thin slices of crunchy radish is the delicious result. A rump of tender Lyndall lamb is stuffed with black olives, roasted, sliced and served with a rich tomato sauce on the side.
Peppina seats 190 (including the private dining room and terrace) but thanks to seductive, leather-lined booths, a variety of tables and clever lighting, it still feels intimate and noise levels are pleasantly buzzing rather than overwhelming. Two mature olive trees in enormous pots enjoy a spot in the sun under a section of glass ceiling and rough limestone walls are a solid – and beautiful – reminder of the building’s origins.
After an evening of good food and wine, we’re feeling suitably relaxed, with just
From left: A selection of Peppina entrees with Boomer Bay Oysters, with lemon & elderflower mignonette, centre; and Paccheri with flaked blue eye and cherry tomatoes, above. Pictures: Remi Chauvin
enough room for dessert – a generous portion of tiramisu. With robust flavours of coffee and liqueur, this traditional dessert has been given a makeover and is not for the faint of heart or those sensitive to caffeine. It’s a pick-me-up in the best way and wonderful ending to a meal that makes southern Italy feel at home in Hobart.