Eatery makes a splash
There’s a soft pink sunset sky over the Eastern Shore as we make our way through quiet Sunday evening streets and down to Waterline, which is quite literally on the waterline at the end of the Brooke St Pier. The vibe is laidback beach club the night we visit, thanks to a cool playlist, upturned fishing basket light fittings, cheery yellow chairs and an unusually warm evening.
The outdoor deck is buzzing with both small and larger groups, and everyone has a water view. What more could you want from a Sunday evening? The only thing disturbing the peace is when the garrulous waiter sprints across the deck to send Gary the inquisitive seagull on his way. No chips for you tonight, Gary!
Waterline has smaller and larger items on the menu, making it an easy choice for catching up with friends for drinks and a snack or settling in for dinner. We start with raclette on housemade focaccia ($15), and it immediately conjures up memories of the first time I ate raclette (a Swiss dish that is a molten pile of melted cheese enveloping bread or vegetables) while on a Club Med ski holiday in Switzerland. For a girl from the suburbs, it was heady stuff and my love for melted cheese has not diminished since then. The same can’t be said for my skiing abilities. This raclette is mild yet flavourful and the focaccia is pleasantly plump and chewy. Other share plate options look equally delicious but we opt to move into a main course situation.
Larger plates include crispy whole fried fish with romesco sauce ($32) and pork rillettes from Long Name Farm ($20), but we decide on a sumac-crusted Clover Hill lamb skewer ($32). It’s impressively plated on a long metal skewer and comes with crunchy roasted pink eyes, soft flatbread and three different sauces to pair with the charred and tender lamb.
It’s an easy dish to share and I look longingly at the other skewer options (Cape Grim beef with Huon Valley mushrooms or Pirates Bay octopus with fennel) before deciding on the house-made Cumberland sausage ($27). This traditional-style sausage is usually served as a long coil and this one is no exception – topped with a zingy salsa verde and a side of house-made barbecue sauce. It’s a satisfyingly meaty sausage and pairs well with the rocket salad ($15) that is studded with pickled currants, candied walnuts and shaved parmesan.
Our other side dish is Moroccan-spiced cauliflower ($15) that’s been fried in a light batter and served with a sticky hot sauce that’s just on the safe side of spicy for my husband.
Waterline opened in December and is part of the company that also owns Seagrass Long Point in Sandy Bay and the Glen Albyn Estate in Taroona. Owner Bernadette Woods is well known in Tasmanian hospitality circles, having been involved in expanding Cradle Mountain Village and developing Strahan village. This new foray has been popular since the doors opened in time for summer.
And it’s not just easy evenings at Waterline; they’re open from 9am every day, serving breakfast until noon. Some of these items have a nodding acquaintance with the menu at Seagrass and I can recommend the homemade crumpets with lemon curd and mixed berries ($19) and the Huon Valley mushrooms on toast ($20) as substantial and delicious brunch options. A view of the water always seems to sharpen my appetite and here you’ve got a frontrow seat to watch the Mona Romas, pilot boats, tugs and the larger research vessels.
As dusk turns into evening, the temperature is still balmy and we order a dessert to share. The citrus Eton mess ($16) is both tart and sweet with a satisfying crunch from the meringue and a toffee crumb. The orange blossom cream is wonderfully light and the presentation – on a plate rather than in a glass, is very pretty.
The other desserts – including an upside-down pineapple cake with coconut ice cream ($16) – are very tempting but will have to wait for our next visit.
Just as we leave a wind suddenly blows up and fat drops of summer rain splatter the windscreen, but it’s not enough to dampen our evening at this new addition to Hobart’s waterfront dining scene.