A taste of Italy in Hobart
If you’ve been watching friends or celebrities or friends who are celebrities having a whale of a time in Italy over the Northern summer, do not despair. We have our own little piece of Italian paradise right here in Hobart. Sure, you’re more likely to get there by Subaru than Vespa but the views are fab, the vibe is “villa in Tuscany” and the food is pure Italy by way of Tasmania. I’m talking, of course, about Osteria Vista, the restaurant at Stefano Lubiana’s vineyard on the western outskirts of town.
If a long, relaxed lunch (there’s only one sitting so you won’t get rushed out the door) is your idea of a good weekend activity, Osteria Vista is delivering in spades. There are a couple of free-range chickens to greet us as we arrive and the muted tones of the rendered building instantly conjure up the Italian countryside. Step inside and the centrepiece is a large open fireplace, separating the restaurant from the tasting area. Sadly, it’s not lit today, despite the chill in the air, but I understand some fire management lessons are planned for the frontof-house team. It’s the only low note in an afternoon that’s otherwise pitch-perfect with attentive service matched by dishes that let their ingredients shine.
Lunch is a set menu ($85) and we begin with a pillowy bread roll that’s been cooked in the wood-fired oven and topped with a generous pat of black garlic butter. It’s charred and soft and I’d happily eat another. A ball of creamy buffalo mozzarella is served with paper-thin slices of candied Meyer lemon – it’s sweet yet has retained its citrusy tang and pairs beautifully with the cheese.
Dishes are served to share but the team has no problem accommodating one of our party who has a shellfish allergy – she gets her own plate of frutta di terra e mare, while the rest of us share our portion of Flinders Island octopus, mussels, roasted carrots and local olives. It’s not necessarily a combination I would have put together, but it certainly works.
“We want to be simple, approachable and affordable,” says head chef Jeff Workman, “and offer something a bit different from other restaurants in the area. We’re cooking for love and for people in a rustic old-world environment. There are no pretensions here.” Previously at Peacock & Jones, Workman enjoys working with local producers and says, “you can’t hide behind such simple dishes. Every dish needs to be tasty and perfectly executed. There’s no ‘filler’ on this menu.”
Our final antipasti – carrozza – is a perfect example of this – a baton of fresh scamorza (smoked mozzarella) is crumbed, fried and