Crack science of eggs
I HAVE considerable affection for science, even in those subjects where I lack the benefit that might come from actual knowledge. Indeed, that specific kind of dilettante behaviour could even be seen as essential in matters where mass media is concerned, so perhaps I’m just a little bit blessed. A very little. But eggs do fascinate me, not merely for their central position in how we cook, but for their fundamental role as a kind of avatar for the potential of what cuisine can be. Chefs are always pushing the boundaries. In the early 2000s French food chemist Herve This worked together with the famed chef Pierre Gagnaire to derive what they described as the ideal way to cook an egg. Turns out, their contribution was actually pretty simple. All they recommended was that the magic number was 65 — degrees Celsius that is. One hour, two hours, eight hours? It makes no difference, because the coagulation of the protein structure of the yolks would not progress any further provided the water did not become hotter. The result should be an entire egg that has the creamy texture of a perfectly runny yolk. It is, in my own humble opinion, utterly revolting, and definitely not worth the time, expense and rigmarole that goes into its production. More recently, I came upon a more organic means of cooking eggs that I would love to share with our scientist friends. Heat yes, but also smoke — the gentle permeating aroma of gum leaves. And best of all, you need no special equipment, just your backyard barbecue, and a couple of branches from the tree on the verge.
WARM SALAD OF TOMATOES, POTATOES AND GUM-SMOKED EGGS
SERVES: 4
Ingredients
6 medium potatoes 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt flakes and freshly-ground black pepper 2 punnets mixed baby tomatoes 2 long red chillies, seeded and chopped 4 eggs
1 bunch basil leaves 1 tbsp mustard seed oil
Method
1. Wrap the potatoes individually in foil with a little oil, salt and pepper, then bake for 1½ hours in a moderate oven or cook over a moderate barbecue, turning often for 1 hour, until tender. Unwrap and scoop out the flesh. 2. Toss the tomatoes and chilli with the remaining olive oil, season with salt, then cook in a skillet over a moderate heat until the skin begin to split. Set aside. 3. Place the eggs on the coolest part of the barbecue, then put gum leaves on to the coals to create heat. Continue cooking and turning the eggs, until they are browned and too hot to touch. Peel and halve. 4. Assemble the salad components, then finish with basil and mustard seed oil.