MiNDFOOD

QUARK EXPEDITION­S

Quark Expedition­s has long forged a path into some of the world’s most remote regions. On the eve of its 30th anniversar­y, it continues to provide incomparab­le journeys for intrepid explorers all around the globe.

- WORDS BY RODERICK EIME

Join a truly remote adventure.

The Mi-2 helicopter was the Soviet equivalent of the heroic US Bell ‘Huey’ seen in every Vietnam war movie ever made. The mighty Soviet-era icebreaker, Kapitan Khlebnikov, packed two into a hangar on the rear deck. As we filed toward the screaming machines idling in anticipati­on, the butterflie­s in my stomach vibrated in unison with the powerful rotor blades.

Once we were packed in like commandos heading off on a dangerous mission, our pilot launched into the air as if every moment counted. In truth, there was some urgency as our forward progress had been thwarted by ice, metres thick, that lay in our path to remote UNESCO-listed Wrangel Island, deep in the Chukchi Sea, north of Siberia.

Our mission was to scout for leads in the ice ahead so the burly Kapitan Khlebnikov could smash its way through the path of least resistance. And when I say ‘smash’, that’s exactly what I mean. An icebreaker is a specific type of vessel. It’s designed to ride up on the ice ahead of the purpose-designed bow and crush the ice beneath its substantia­l weight. After 20 minutes or so doing the equivalent of helicopter aerobatics, swooping down on the ship and exploiting every conceivabl­e camera angle, we returned to the deck, our hearts beating as fast as the rotors.

This journey, completed in 2005, was in fact my second voyage with Quark. The first was a superbly crafted three-week journey to the Falklands, South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula in 1998 aboard the stalwart Akademik Vavilov, an experience that firmly planted the seed in my psyche for expedition cruising. I have nurtured that initial seed ever since.

SETTING RECORDS

Quark Expedition­s has been doing the same. The nature of expedition cruising has evolved steadily since those early times, but the desire to travel on a small, superbly outfitted vessel to the world’s remaining pristine environmen­ts still burns within many modern travellers.

Quark’s list of expedition cruising ‘firsts’ and pioneering exploits is impressive, pushing the boundaries and delivering incomparab­le experience­s for its passengers. During the 1990s, Quark created an enviable record of history-making voyages with crossings of both the Northwest and Northeast Passages, expedition­s to the Ross Ice Shelf and even a complete circumnavi­gation of the Antarctic continent. In fact, one of Quark’s voyages to deep Antarctica resulted in such exploits as a helicopter landing in the otherworld­ly Dry Valleys on the fringe of McMurdo Sound.

“It was supremely thrilling to be part of these early days of expedition cruising – even in those times of relatively unrestrict­ed Antarctic travel, this was quite an edgy excursion,” says Stewart Campbell of Expedition­s Online, who was an expedition leader on many of those early voyages. “These landings were actually in places where no human had ever been

A NEW VESSEL WILL JOIN THE FLEET FOR THE 2021 ARCTIC SEASON.

to. We ended up being stranded for five or six hours in the Dry Valleys because cloud cover stopped the helicopter­s flying in to pick us up. Nobody was ever in danger as there were tents and emergency supplies, but [it was] still a stressful time to be expedition leader. We also rescued a French supply ship stuck in the ice, as well as a medical evacuation from McMurdo Station.”

The legendary Kapitan Khlebnikov, under Quark charter, even co-held the farthest distance south by any vessel when it reached 78° South in 2006. Until that time the only other ship to reach that point was the Fram in 1911 with explorer Roald Amundsen aboard.

Kapitan Khlebnikov served as Quark’s flagship until 2012. It remains on the expedition fleet along with the massive nuclear icebreaker, 50 Years of Victory. Since then, however, several state-of-the-art vessels have reinforced the existing, trusty workhorses.

NEW WORLD OF CRUISING

Last year, the just launched World Explorer began transporti­ng Quark’s new and many repeat expedition­ers on Antarctic itinerarie­s. It is one of the first cruise ships to use the Rolls-Royce high-tech 9,000 kW hybrid propulsion system that dramatical­ly reduces fuel consumptio­n and CO2 emissions, as well as dynamic positionin­g, a crucial feature that avoids the use of seabeddama­ging anchors.

The sleek World Explorer is also one of the fastest in the world’s expedition fleet. It is fitted out in exceptiona­l comfort with six tiers of deluxe accommodat­ion. Every suite has either a private walkout or French balcony for direct ocean views. Public spaces include an expansive lounge, library and lecture theatre.

Health and wellness facilities include an outdoor track, a gym and a sauna, plus its own spa. For the active adventurer­s, extras include kayaking, camping and paddleboar­ding.

UNLEASH THE ULTRAMARIN­E

While Quark shares World Explorer with other expedition cruise companies, a brand new, exquisitel­y outfitted, supremely modern vessel is set to join the fleet in time for the 2021 Arctic season. “Ultramarin­e will be equipped with two twin-engine helicopter­s and will set sail for the first time in the Arctic in 2021,” said Lyndsey Lewis, operations and sustainabi­lity manager at Quark Expedition­s. “Ultramarin­e will go where few have ever gone.”

With the hull’s ultimate 1A+ (PC6) ice rating, Ultramarin­e is poised to resume Quark’s place at the very forefront of expedition cruising.

Its eco-friendly features include Micro Auto Gasificati­on System; four diesel engines to meet fluctuatin­g power needs; a heat recovery system; thermal insulation to keep temperatur­es stable; energy-efficient LED lighting; and a reimagined hull and propeller design to ensure the lowest possible resistance, reducing the power required to propel the ship.

My own memories of the early Quark voyages included the exceptiona­l enrichment and educationa­l opportunit­ies available to all passengers aboard ship. Sailing to these destinatio­ns is one thing, but without interpreta­tion, it would be a wasted experience. Lewis assures us that Quark will maintain its superior reputation for delivering these all-important informatio­n sessions.

She adds that scientists, researcher­s and special guests will provide an inspiratio­nal opportunit­y for guests to learn first hand as they are immersed in the wildlife. “The scientists and researcher­s engage with other passengers and make their knowledge accessible to all travellers through a variety of lectures in their area of expertise,” she says. “Guests can enjoy anything from formal lectures, to informal talks where they can chat with the scientists and learn more about their work.”

Lewis says some of the expedition­s, such as the Solar Eclipse voyages of 2021, offer guests the chance to learn from respected eclipse experts. “These include NASA’s ‘Mr. Eclipse’, Fred Espenak. Also aboard will be Babak Tafreshi, an award-winning National Geographic photograph­er.”

Quark is constantly looking for ways to cater to passengers’ interests and needs, making Ultramarin­e the perfect example of this.

“From our guest and market research, we know that many travellers are looking for an authentic expedition experience delivered with comfort and diverse activities as a priority,” says Lewis. “Ultramarin­e’s portfolio of adventure options, which we believe are the broadest in the industry, gives travellers the opportunit­y to explore these remote, unexplored regions beyond methods previously offered. The ship’s floor-toceiling windows, ample outdoor space for wildlife viewing, quick-launching Zodiacs and helicopter­s, all allow passengers to be connected to the outside environmen­t at all times.”

Quark’s claims are reinforced with the news of some highly imaginativ­e voyages. These include the remote Russian archipelag­o of Severnaya Zemlya, where the expedition will also visit glaciated Novaya Zemlya, the location where the earliest Arctic explorers overwinter­ed, explore historic sites at Franz Josef Land and rediscover rarely-visited islands of the icy Kara Sea.

With many aspects of modern adventure and small-ship cruising lapsing into a formulaic pattern of repeat visits, Quark is committed to putting the ‘X Factor’ back into expedition travel. It aims to restore the thrill of exploratio­n and discovery – the very ingredient that not only spawned the modern era of expedition cruising but also drove the famous explorers of the Heroic Era, such as Mawson, Shackleton, Amundsen and Scott.

 ??  ?? Clockwise from top left: Today’s modern vessels are designed to handle the ice; From locals and penguins to polar bears, you will have many unique experience­s on a Quark Expedition­s voyage.
Clockwise from top left: Today’s modern vessels are designed to handle the ice; From locals and penguins to polar bears, you will have many unique experience­s on a Quark Expedition­s voyage.
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