GRIME TIME
Your questions answered
Beginning to balloon
I’ve been reading a lot about wider tyres and rims of late, and think it might be time to try some out. Can I just buy wider (maybe 2.6in?) tyres and slap them on the wheels I currently have on my bike – 2015 Mavic Crossrides – or do I need to invest in new rims/wheels if I want to try out some of this newfangled super-wide rubber? And if I do need to buy new rims, just how wide should I be looking to go? Thanks in advance for any advice! Michael Saunders, via email
The wide rim/tyre trend has been an interesting one to watch unfold. While several bike brands were sold on ‘plus-size’ tyres when they burst onto the scene a few years back, many of us weren’t, due to how much these lightweight, 2.8 to 3in-wide designs squirmed around when ridden hard. It’s good, then, to see that many companies have now settled on slightly narrower 2.5 to 2.6in rubber. These tyres still offer better traction and bump absorption than skinnier designs, but without the unpredictable wobble and sky-high prices of the ‘plus’ equivalent.
As for fitting wider tyres to your Mavic rims, unfortunately, it’s not that simple. If memory serves us right, the Crossrides have a 19mm internal width. This means fitting a tyre much over 2.3in will create a very rounded profile that’s pinched tightly at the bead/rim. All that pinching means the sidewalls won’t be particularly well supported and the tyre will feel vague and be prone to squirming if you try running the lower pressures that gives bigger rubber its grip advantage. That all adds up to you having to reach in your pocket to buy a set of rims/wheels that are a little broader.
There are loads of different rim widths available but we’d go for an internal measurement of around 30mm. This will give 2.5 and 2.6in tyres a predictable profile and plenty of sidewall support even at low pressures.
Pack it in
I’m tired of getting a sweaty back every time I ride so I’ve decided to ditch my pack. I’ve got a bottle cage on my bike and a tube strapped to my frame, but what’s the best way to carry tools? Gary Holloway, via email
There are a number of neat solutions – it just depends on what you need and your budget. The ultimate stashable toolkit is OneUp Components’ EDC Tool (US$59), which can either be stowed in their 100cc mini pump ($35) and mounted on your frame or concealed within your fork steerer ($35 for the top cap, plus $35 for the steerer tap kit if your local bike shop doesn’t have one). You get a multi-tool, chain tool and tyre lever, plus space for a CO2 canister and quick link. For an extra $35, you can add quick-link pliers and a tubeless repair kit.
If you’re happy with something a little less comprehensive, Specialized’s SWAT Conceal Carry MTB Tool (£85) is a multi-tool that sits inside a spring-loaded tube within your steerer, where there’s room for a spare quick link too. Or, there’s the All In Multitool ( 67.90) which sits inside your crank axle and is held in place with a magnet. Before buying any of these tools, make sure that they cover all the bolts on your bike.
Angle of the dangle
What sort of angle should my brake levers sit at?
Fiona Mayfair, via email
The key here is not to angle your brakes too far towards either extreme. If they’re pointing at the floor, you’ll struggle to reach the levers when hanging off the back of your bike. Too flat or pointing up at the sky, and your wrists will flex too much on flatter trails. We’d suggest standing on your bike in an attacking position and angling the levers to match the natural line of your arm, wrist and hand.