The answers to all your technical questions, plus our guide to initial set-up of a new bike and all you need to know about adjusting your suspension
Your questions answered
Forkin’ complicated
After a big crash and a few years without any kind of maintenance, my trusty old X-Fusion fork needs to be retired. Now seems the right time to dig deep and buy something better. I’m after a 160mm-travel fork that’ll handle a decent hammering, but I’m not bothered by a lockout or travel adjustment. What sort of thing should I be considering and are there any that you’d recommend?
Paul Stevens, via email
Buying a new fork can make a huge difference to how your bike handles. Thankfully, there are plenty to choose from. We’d start by considering how much you’re willing to spend, because that’ll potentially narrow down your choice. Next, you should consider compatibility. Does your X-Fusion fork have a tapered steerer tube? Is your frame’s head tube tapered? If so, you can fit a fork with a tapered steerer even if your old one didn’t have one – although you’ll need to shell out for a new headset. What axle size do you need? There’s no point buying a fork with wider Boost spacing if you’re not willing to shell out on converting your hub or buying a new wheel.
Also think about the fork chassis. Larger-diameter stanchions (upper legs that measure 34-36mm) will help create a stiffer fork. Then there’s the type of spring and adjustments. Do you want a coil or air spring? A coil is suppler and smoother, but adjusting it to suit your weight or riding style is harder than with the air-sprung equivalent, which simply requires you to add/remove air using a shock pump. If you’re not into faffing about with dials and knobs to get your fork working well, you may want to avoid one that allows you to alter everything possible externally.
As you’re after a fairly long-travel, robust fork, we’d aim for something like the 2019 RockShox Yari RC if you want performance but can’t stretch to £1,000 or more for a RockShox Lyrik Ultimate or Fox 36 Float FIT GRIP2. The Yari gets RockShox’s smooth DebonAir spring and controlled Charger damper, inside a stiff 35mm chassis. Damping adjustments are limited to low-speed compression and rebound only, which helps with rapid set-up. Just be sure it’s compatible with your frame and front hub. Whatever fork you settle on, be sure to carry out regular maintenance to get the most out of it and keep it working better for longer.
Power struggle
I feel like I need more powerful brakes. Should I shell out for some new stoppers or is there another way to boost performance?
Roger Standon, via email
Before you reach for the credit card, try some basic maintenance and minor upgrades. Start with a brake bleed to make actuation feel crisp and light. Applying some brake cleaner to the discs and pads should help too. Check the pads for wear and roughen up the braking surface with some sandpaper to help with bite. Upping the rotor size (if you don’t have the maximum size already) is the next most obvious step for boosting power, and won’t cost a bomb. If you’re running 180mm rotors, try some 200mm ones (on the front, at least), but be sure to buy the corresponding mounting adapters for your fork and frame. These steps should up your braking power without you having to buy new anchors.
RIM DENT
I’ve put a dent in my rear rim. It’s not massive and, so far, the tubeless tyre is holding pressure. Can I repair the rim? Sally Newbold, via email
Yes, it can be fixed. If you remove the tyre and the tubeless tape and give the rim a good clean, you should be able to tweak it back into shape. Tape a piece of inner tube inside the jaws of an adjustable spanner, then clamp the tool onto the offending section of rim and gently lever it back into position. Refit the tape and tyre, add some sealant and inflate. Be sure to keep an eye on the fix though, as it’ll be weaker than before.