Bluffer’s -GUIDE
COIL SPRUNGF SHOCKS
What are the bene its?
Coil shocks are renowned for their supple initial stroke. They’re easy to get moving into the early part of their travel because they don’t have to overcome the seal friction that air-sprung shocks do. This means they’ll help keep your rear tyre glued to the trail when things get loose. Due to the linear nature of their spring curve, they can (but don’t always) offer great mid-stroke support too, which is a plus if you ride aggressively. They also don’t heat up as easily as air shocks so should feel more consistent on longer descents.
Can I it one on my bike?
Some bikes are designed to work with both air and coil shocks – Whyte’s G-180 and Santa Cruz’s Nomad, for example – but this isn’t common. Coil springs aren’t naturally progressive like air springs, so if your bike’s suspension kinematics aren’t suited to use with a coil shock, it’s probably not worth the hassle of trying to make one work. Coil shocks tend to be bulkier, too, so getting one to actually fit into your frame is the next issue. If you’re unsure, speak to your bike/shock brand or a suspension tuner.
How do I set the spring rate & sag?
Spring rate is determined by the coil you fit (eg. 400lb/in), so make sure it suits your weight and riding style. To work out the sag percentage you need to know the shock’s stroke length – the manufacturer’s website should have this. With a ruler or tape, measure the shock’s static eye-toeye length, then hop on the bike, in full riding kit, in the attack position, while a friend measures the sagged eye-to-eye length. Subtract the sagged measurement from the unsagged. Divide this by the stroke and then multiply by 100.
Any set-up tips?
As with any shock, getting the spring rate and sag correct is key. After that, it’s all down to the adjustments on offer. Preloading the spring (by turning the collar to clamp it tighter) won’t change the level of support but will make it tougher to initiate the early part of the travel. Most brands offer base settings to get you started. These are usually pretty good so stick with them initially then note any changes you make. Alternatively, an aftermarket tuning company can adjust the shock very close to what you need, leaving you to make small changes on the trail.